Joe's CNC Model 2006

[Woodie1]

Can some one tell what program to use to open the Plans?
Thanks

[gtschance]

The free way is:

http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/

Free reader from SolidWorks

[Woodie1]

Down loaded edrawingsvierwer, still can't open the drawings.Must be doing something worng?

[dicksonhof]

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

[gtschance]

Several pages of posts back, the location of a complete set of drawings for Joe's R2 design are listed. As I recall, many different format files are there including ACAD dwg [not DXF] files. I am fairly certain that BobCAD can open those. eDrawingsviewer CAN as well as multiple other of the file types in Joe's package of files.

If you are new to the eDrawingsviewer, it likes EASM files and many others.

g

[HayTay]

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

Here's the link to all of the current file formats of Joe's CNC 2006 R-2 drawings, videos, parts list and manual:

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chev...odel_2006_R-1/

Most of them are ZIPPED and need to be UNZIPPED before you can view them.


BTW, Joe, the "Joes CNC Model 2006 R-2.zip" file appears to be corrupt. If/When you get a chance you may want to re-post that file collection.


HTH,

Thanks,

[mike hide]

Yes you can move it anywhere on the gantry, it will just shorten your travel by that much but no big deal, i would put it on the front inside.

I was also toying with the idea of two on the gantry inside was thinking this may help any whipping by keeping leadscrew straighter. im my experimenting now, i put two bearing blocks on the end of a 72" 5/8"-6 leadscrew, 6" from each other on both ends and at 160ipm it help reduce the whipping quite a bit.

Joe

Joe do you know of a source of longer leadscrews say 8' long or so ?

[sdantonio]

Joe do you know of a source of longer leadscrews say 8' long or so ?

Acme lead screws are available up to 12ft in length. WT Tool stocks them http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/11475

your choices are 3ft, 5ft or 12ft.

[ger21]

Nook stocks acme in 12' lengths. www.nookind.com

[Marm]

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

Also if you look bad somebody offered to host the file and you could try that one or Joe even posted a link on a file sharing service that he posted the file on.

[bp092]

I hosted the files for Joe in addition to the file sharing site. The link is below and should be unmodified, as in Joe hasn't made any additions beyond that point but correct me if I'm wrong.

Includes everything, manual, autocad files, edrawing models, etc.

http://www.dkahost.com/joecnc/Joes%2...2006%20R-2.zip I believe joe has only released the dwg's. I take it you just want the DXF's so you can import them into bobcad?

[joecnc2006]

If anybody out there would have joes plans in dxf file this would be awsome.
I could drop in bobcad and go to town.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chev...odel_2006_R-1/

[bp092]

heh joe I see you moving the z up and down in a vid in that folder that I haven't seen before, are you just jogging that in mach 3?

[Robert M]

Hi all,

Out of joe’s fabulous plans, I see a lot of exchanges & excitement on how some users make & assemble their version. But it appears to me difficult do see what Joe and others are using when it comes to motors & controllers set ups ?
Is it me that’s missing some thread (most likely ) on this or it’s something that is not ( almost not) covered & discus arround here ??
Aside of Xylotex, what else are you all using ??

Thanks, Robert M

[bp092]

Robert, the machine part itself is fairly straight forward and easy to build. It's involved and requires dedication and patience, but it doesn't require a whole lot of experience in CNC at all. I see where you might find the mechanical, motors & driver assembly a little more complicated. I'm about to order mine and my machine is almost built. Most people on Joe's builds are either using hobby cnc's kit or xylotex. IN the kits they mainly consist of nema steppers and 3 axis driver boards. Xylotex offers a complete kit, assembled, no soldering what-so-ever, plug and play of sorts. However, some are using multifunction cards from cnc4pc so they can add limit switches to each axis, e-stop buttons etc. So far I've seen people only use a porter cable or hitachi variable speed router with this build. If you buy a multifunction card to couple the driver board you can control the variable speed router (on and off) and other things as well. There is more to it and even with the electronics it isn't as hard as it sounded. When I first looked at the build it was the best for my needs but overwhelmed me a little until I saw pictures of Joe's kit. I swear, if you buy the kit from him everything else just kind of falls into place. Watch David in the next coming week or two and read his thread as it is a wealth of documentation and information for this matter. He's also willing I'm sure to help in any way with questions regarding the mechanics and what he has bought for it. Hope this helps, but just be specific on what you're after and there are a lot of people here that will reply and help.

-Brian

[Robert M]

Hi Brian,
Thank you very much for your time to reply and the recommendations I should take in a forum.

I too am confident, just like many in this thread & forum, about building my own parts for my future machine. Not intimidated at all with this part of the built !
But on the other hand & as you so well pointed “I see where you might find the mechanical, motors & driver assembly a little more complicated.”
I must admit this is an area where I’m not confident at all on what I should go with. I don’t see much, if any at all, threads on the motor & drive subject here ?
What motor & controller brand, what oz motor size, what reduction ratios, why not this & why not that, one with a better experience on such type of ratio vs another, and on & on…
I know there is other Forums on this, but not much going on this here nether don’t see much inviting others from this thread (& Forum) tell a bit more about their experiences & pitfalls on their motor/controller machine set up! ( the motor & drive part… since it is obvious that Joe’s machine kit built is running smooth for everyone)
I’ve seen David DaCosta nice web set up. He has taking a lot a trouble & time to share & showing us all his steps, building the machine and also the steps for his “step motors” set up !

How one can dictate what is the proper motor size ?
Why a gear box & ratios ?
What is needed to have 5 motors running ( 2 on the Y, 1 for X, 1 for Z) and a 5th to run an indexer ( for turnings) ??

I guess what I’m saying is ; it’s easy for me to assemble & find information through all the information that’s out there on what & how to built the structure and parts for a built, but can’t seem to find & read enough on the motor / controller set-ups & part so I can have a clear path in the electronic part of a built!!

Thanks, Robert.

[Woodie1]

What is David DaCosta 's web site?
Thanks

[bp092]

What is David DaCosta 's web site?
Thanks

http://web.mac.com/dacostad/

Click the blog archive for past assembly, he only has recent stuff on there + videos.

[bp092]

I think David or Joe could best answer this. It's not rocket science trust me, I just think others have logged the build and haven't really been asked the questions you ask enough to detail them all thorougly. Many of them are already into cnc with past jgro builds or smaller machines so this is just a move upwards from that. Glad you're interested in Joe's machine.

Hi Brian,
Thank you very much for your time to reply and the recommendations I should take in a forum.

I too am confident, just like many in this thread & forum, about building my own parts for my future machine. Not intimidated at all with this part of the built !
But on the other hand & as you so well pointed “I see where you might find the mechanical, motors & driver assembly a little more complicated.”
I must admit this is an area where I’m not confident at all on what I should go with. I don’t see much, if any at all, threads on the motor & drive subject here ?
What motor & controller brand, what oz motor size, what reduction ratios, why not this & why not that, one with a better experience on such type of ratio vs another, and on & on…
I know there is other Forums on this, but not much going on this here nether don’t see much inviting others from this thread (& Forum) tell a bit more about their experiences & pitfalls on their motor/controller machine set up! ( the motor & drive part… since it is obvious that Joe’s machine kit built is running smooth for everyone)
I’ve seen David DaCosta nice web set up. He has taking a lot a trouble & time to share & showing us all his steps, building the machine and also the steps for his “step motors” set up !

How one can dictate what is the proper motor size ?
Why a gear box & ratios ?
What is needed to have 5 motors running ( 2 on the Y, 1 for X, 1 for Z) and a 5th to run an indexer ( for turnings) ??

I guess what I’m saying is ; it’s easy for me to assemble & find information through all the information that’s out there on what & how to built the structure and parts for a built, but can’t seem to find & read enough on the motor / controller set-ups & part so I can have a clear path in the electronic part of a built!!

Thanks, Robert.

[BMG]

Hey all.

1 sheet of MDF done and a good start on a table saw based X axis.

As I mentioned, I am on a tight budget and am attempting to build the torsion boxes without CNC help. So far so good.

Since the X axis has the largest pieces, I started with them. I am simply measuring and cutting and to date I have the 8 short ribs and the 4 long ribs done. I first cut the 4X8 sheet in 2. The cut was about an inch longer than the short rib length. I set up a rip fence on my table and ripped out the 8 short ribs, reset then ripped out the long ribs. I tried to take Hager's advice regarding cutting extra pieces but due to a screwup on the first rip, I lost my extras. I made the long ribs as a single piece (not limited in cut lengths this way).

Next, I stacks and squared the short ribs, clamped em together then used a 12 inch chop saw to square off the pieces to length in 1 cut.

Next, I set the rip fence on the table to act as a guide for cutting the interlocking slots. Each pair of slots (mirror imaged the cuts) required 2 settings of the rip fence and careful checking of the position. Once these cuts were made, I used the saw freehand to cut out the middle part of the remaining board. One tough issue, this was my table saw's extreme position out of the table (3.2" high) and I took time and care to do this right and safely.

After the slots were cut, I next cut out the recess where the top and bottom parts of the torsion box would go. Here I used my table saw as a mill. I cut a series of kerfs, broke out the inbetween ridges then ran the whole mess back and forth across the table saw to mill the surface flat. All 8 ribs were still clamped together.

After I was satisfied of the kerf cuts, I removed my clamps and repeated this process for the long ribs.

Once done, I test fitted everything. Except for one short rib, everything fit tight. Due to the saw cut depth, I have some problems ribs not completely seating. Since the ribs are tight, I will route out the final 1/4 inch of depth using a router and a crude guide. If I overcut, it should be ok since everything will be heavily glued.

It took me about 20 minutes to rib all the pieces, another 20 minutes to stack square and cut the ribs to length. The majority of the time was cutting the slots and reseting the rip guide 4 times for the short ribs and 8 times for the long ribs. Started Saterday at 3:30pm til 5, got interrupted with a grandparent visit for my son, resumed around 8:30pm and called it a night at 11:30 after I test assembled the ribs. SO almost 5 hours into it.

My next step is to create a router guide frame to shape the ends of the short ribs. I see simply placing a single rib end in the guide - route - flip - route - switch to a new rib. IF this works, I will use this also to drill the holes needed in the ends of each rib.

I was very heartened by the positive response you all gave to my endeavour to go this approach. Your feedback helped me consider some options (such as making extra pieces) I had not thought of.

THanks for your support and I am looking forward to the build.

Brian G.

ps. Started my own build log so as to not take this log off track with my attempt.