Gantry Support Pipes Adjustment Blocks

[johnd10]

Question - I made all the parts for my machine out of MDF per JGRO's plans, including the pipe support/adjustment blocks. The ones for the smaller pipes for I guess the Z $ X axes seem to be OK, but I was wondering if you guys who have already built your machines used MDF for the large adjustment blocks for the Gantry support pipes or did you use a different material like plastic for these blocks. Same question about material used for router clamps. Thanks for your help. John

[u77171]

I know people had success using MDF for all of the adjustment blocks but I didn't. I ended up using oak for all of them. A better solution would of been HDPE or even delrin but I already had oak and it worked just fine. Good luck!

[aviatorskate]

I used MDF on the large blocks but went to hardwood oak for the smaller blocks. I will redo the large blocks. Tapping the holes in the MDF was not strong enough for me. I also glued everything for added strength.

[Fyddler]

I am using tapped MDF with CA soaked threads. So far I have not had any issues, but i have been very careful not to reef on the bolts.

[dustin1706]

I used MDF, but one or two holes are beginning to strip. I will change to HDPE or Alum.

[uvodee]

I used MDF, but one or two holes are beginning to strip. I will change to HDPE or Alum.

I started a few weeks ago,
this is taking me far more time than most other particpants on this site but I am in no hurry so ...
on the subject of the set screws, i just got some 50 hex screws for free, same size as the screws i have used as set screws so I will be changing that shortly
i do not believe in MDF holding thread, certainly not to serve set screws so i went for HDPE. I bought it through an amazonstore and went for 1" 1sq. ft. the 1' thickness is a bit much but i have cut some in half with a bandsaw into 1/2" for a few applicaitons on the machine. cost was approx. $22

I still have plenty left and will use some for the mount of the small router ($25 at Harbor Freight) I will be using.
Also notice that I am trying to keep costs as low as I can, everyone can make nice things with expensive materials, it is a lot harder to do it with cheap supplies

I am upset about the fact that I live in the NW... everything seems a lot more expensive here than in other places in the US. I visited a HD in TX and every item was cheaper than here?????

all my tools are from a) harbor freight tools b) from craigslist, most electronics are from surplus websites, cncgeeker and the current software is from DAKENG.com



some pics to show off





Jean-Pierre

[uvodee]

i have not had a lot of reaction on my intro but that is allright,
i will still post some more pics....
including a pic of the pc that I intend to use for the whole process.
i have built in the driver board from cncgeeker and added a seaparate powersupply as well. so the 5 volts comes from the pc supply and the 24 v from the added switching supply.
i am still wondering if I should go for the turbocnc under dos (this pc) or if I should change it and start with another pc and go with KCAM software running under windows...
if i switch it will mean that i have to change another pc (i have plenty) and build the driverboard and extra power supply into that pc. i will use a flexible keyboard = dustresistant


Sincerely



Jean-Pierre
Federal Way, WA

[dustin1706]

Hey uvodee, Welcome to the forum.

You will be glad you went with the HDPE adjustment blocks. The adjustment blocks are the only part of my JGRO that I threaded MDF for, I used "deck screws" and wood glue everywhere else. I just need to pick up a piece of 3/4 HDPE off Ebay or something and cut out some new adjustment blocks.

My biggest problem with my machine is the Y axis having slop. It's not bad if cutting shallow enough passes. But if I lift up on the router the whole gantry will lean. The X and y themselves are good. I need to redo my bearing carriages and get my HDPE adjustment blocks so I can tighten the Y rails.

Your build looks good so far. The only thing I would reccomend is sanding the gas pipe if it is rough. the paint on mine was fairly rough so I put the pipe in a lathe and sanded it down with regular sandpaper until it was shiny. Made it much smoother.

I think a lot of people go with Mach 3 for their controller software. It's the only one I've used though, so I can't give a comparison except to say that mach3 has exceptional official support as well as on this site.

The JGRO is a good design, and the main weakness is the Y axis being unsupported. Check out Jason's thread if you haven't already as he has done a serious amount of work with his.

Good luck with the rest of your build! Any questions post em here and someone will answer eventually lol.

[uvodee]

I finished my jgro cnc machine, I am now calibrating it.
The software ( I went for MACH3 finally, runs good with the cheap driver board from cnc geeker), still some things I have to adjust in the settings but the motors react to all sorts of commands....

I am pretty excited right now, I did not expect this to go so smooth.... after all I am not a machinist nor an engineer ..
But I did get this thing moving!

by the way the router is the handheld one from Harborfreight, this machine runs so smooth, no vibration whatsoever.
I am getting a reduction collet from 1/4 to 1/8.. anyone suggest where to get this?
And now I would like to start ordering some bits online.
Where can I find the cheapest ones please? I know Amana, these are not what I am looking for.


Thank you in advance

I will post pictures on request.

Jean-Pierre

ps i am ready to build the computer work station so that I can stand or sit in a high chair when working on it.
I am also getting a flexible keyboard - dustfree

[dustin1706]

Glad you got her finished.

For bits, check out whiteside router bits, MLCSwoodworking or American carbide. I recommend you get carbide bits over regular steel ones. They are a bit more expensive, but last much much longer before dulling.

Most people stay away from collet reducers because they usually cause excessive run out. Depending on your router, you should be able to find 1/8 collets to fit. Many people use the ones from precisebits, but they are somewhat expensive. If you would like to use a reducer though, you can normally find them at home depot or any other big hardware store.

You should check out the videos on the mach 3 website for getting it setup, and also under the support> documentation part of the site, read the PDF titled "CV notes".

[zeeway]

I bought 1/4 to 1/8 reducer collet from Galaxy Products in Ohio - they are reasonable and work well.

I also recommend sticking with carbide bits - I buy mine from eagleamerica.com. Fast service and good quality.

[uvodee]

Everybody is helping me, thank You!

So i was looking at bits... there must be a gazillion bits on line.
What type do I buy for name carving, cutting thin wood = 1/4\" and 1/2"? I need some bit names, I found veining bits which I assume are for carving and evgraving... I will try one hoping this will engrave.


English is my fourth language so I would like the correct name of the bits I want.

Makes me think of the path of confusion i was taking to find barrel nuts....
I spoke to 4 different co's and all were naming them differently...
Even CONFIRMAT screws were different from one place to the other!!!

Jean-Pierre