MDF or ply for JGRO router?

[sdantonio]

Hello Carlnpa,

Have you gotten your router back together, as per your last post you were just putting it back together.

How are the 1020 rails working out for you? I know some people dislike the material in past posts but with your milled slots and you seem to have gotten past the problems other have had. I was just wondering how it turned out when it comes to routing an actual piece. If things are still going well I may pick up a pair of the slots for you.

Steven

[carlnpa]

I have run the machine around 10 hours now, just cutting air while I have the other machine going on parts. The modification of the x axis was very easy there is far less gantry flex, the rail provides a known reference point of alignment, the UHMW on the rail is very low friction and slides freely. The rail is fully supported so the 1020 rail profile is adequate unlike the pipe that does deflect. The bearing slides really well and better with some silicone lube spray. I had not removed the acme screw (didn't want to mess with my AB nuts) so using the screw as a handle I could give the gantry a push and it would slide to the end of the rail+. No issues, works as expected, much better than the roller/pipe bearing, not as rigid as a steel linear bearing and rail. Was able to get up to 80 IPM before missing steps with 200oz motors (was at 40IPM before).
The UHMW bearings I made are very different from the 8020 manufactured ones. The 8020 system uses removable inserts. The mount I made has the insert profile milled to mate precisely with the rail and the JGRO gantry (or any other gantry).

[carlnpa]

I just added pictures to the post above. The conversion is very easy. To align the rails the acme screw was put in place, gantry moved to one end and the position of the rail traced onto the frame, repeated at the other end. Removed screw, used a 1" piece of the 8020 as a drill guide, opened hole to 5/16, threaded the 8020 for 1/4-20, ran bolts through frame into the 8020, tightened bolts with gantry close to frame and repeated at other end. The frame was cut on a table saw to remove the former x axis pipe holes. Paint is still needed, but this machine is in a part of the shop below freezing.

[Rance]

Carl,

I realize its a reeeeeal old post but back in post #9 (MDF or ply for JGRO router?) you have a pic of your adj. block. It looks like your T-Nuts are on the outside. I believe they should be on the inside. You probably noticed it by now and have already fixed them.

Rance

[whateg01]

Originally Posted by carlnpa ...8 wire shielded 22...

I know this is in response to a very old post, but this seems to be pretty light wire. Is this supplying power to the motors?

Dave

[biker-machinist]

what do you use for slide rods ? where do you buy motors? do thet sell a completed kit: control board, motors , power supply and fan ?
Thanks

[carlnpa]

To catch up
Rance - the nuts were epoxied into the adj block as they wouldn't clear the pipe on the inside, they worked but had issues, anyway they are gone in favor of uhmw blocks I made.
Whateg01 - the motor wires are 18 awg, supply wires 22awg, they seem to work fine with no heating, the wire came from Hobbycnc. I agree though seems light.
Biker - the long slide rods (x axis) are now an 1x2" extrusion #1020 from 8020 Inc. The machine was home built following JGRO plans found on this site and has been modified. Control board, motors and power supply kit (w/fan) are from Hobbycnc
New upgrade project y and z axis to 8020 with the new bearings.
I really think the 8020/wood/uhmw(plastic) machine build is a very good way to get an accurate capable cost effective machine. Hack has one here http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...2&page=1&pp=10

[Goran321]

Medex is the exterior version of regular MDF panel. It is about $42 for a 4 X 8 sheet and it works great, it does not warp like plywood and it handles humid conditions well.