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JGRO Router Table Design For the discussion of JGRO designed router table.


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Old 03-29-2008, 04:33 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
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A Fast (hopefully) JGRO Build

So, my brother originally introduced me to this forum 3 years ago and we have talked about building a machine since then.

I finally have some time on my hands so we are going to attempt to build a JGRO over the next couple of weeks (assuming I can get all of the parts in that period of time).

We are both novices as far as CNC is concerned so building the machine is just the first hurdle for us but I wanted to run some things by people on the forum before I order them.

We are planning on doing a pretty basic JGRO. We are only modifying the leadscrews and plan to do use the 1/2 10 single start ACME and using Birch 3/4 cabinet grade ply instead of MDF.

What, other than the ACME nuts to go along with the leadscrews does this modification require?

Because we are trying to get the build done quickly I plan on going with the plug and play xylotex with 425 oz. motors (http://www.xylotex.com/Econo3Ax425.htm) looking to use the lovejoy couplers. Does anyone see any problems with this setup?


The lovejoy couplers come in various outer diameters, does this make a difference for this build?

Were do people get the angle aluminum? What exactly are the parts listed as dtl 9 and dtl 11 and were do I get them?

I'm sure I will come up with other questions as I build my orders at various websites.

I'm terrible about keeping things posted online but I plan on making an effort to blog this build.

ssgtbair
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:56 PM
 
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Parts not listed

It appears to me that the parts for the base are not listed in the parts list but can easily be figured out by looking at the assembly diagrams. Are there any other parts not listed?
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:45 AM
 
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I'm building a jgro right now, and the parts that aren't listed are easy enough to figure out with a tape measure.

one thing I changed was my upper and lower torsion boxes are all built with 3/4" mdf instead of a mix of 3/4" and 1/2" as the plans say... so that changes the dimensions of the end pieces a bit too...

-J
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Old 04-04-2008, 08:20 AM
 
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Orders Complete

Well, last night I ordered up all of what I think I'm going to need. I ended up ordering both the Acme couplers from dumpstercnc as well as a set of lovejoy couplers from Enco. Went with 1/2 10 single start rod from Enco for the initial build.

I was suprised how much I ended up spending on miscellaneous parts. Of course buying two sets of couplers upped the ante by about $50. All that is left to buy is the pipe and angle aluminum. When it all gets here I'll be ready to start cutting

ssgtbair
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:56 PM
 
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The goods are in!

So, my front room is full of boxes and now I'm fully committed. I figure $700 should be motivation enough to get the project done

Sergeant
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:12 PM
 
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First Cuts

So, my brother came to town and we spent about 4 hours working on the project. We managed to get all of the stock cut to size and cut and assemble the Base support structure and Bed support.

Now I need to build myself a drill press table before I start boring holes

BTW, Do most people use the HF Trim router or a full size 1hp or 1 1/2hp router?


Sergeant

Last edited by ssgtbair; 04-09-2008 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:43 PM
 
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Glidergider is on a distinguished road

I use the Hitachi 2hp router. variable speed. quiet on the low speeds.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:56 AM
 
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I have a Hitachi and a Porter Cable router sitting around in the garage and I think I will probably use one of them.

So, the aluminum spacer listed as cnc_dtl26, is that made of some sort of aluminum 1/2 pipe?

Also, if I bought the anti-backlash nuts from dumpstercnc do I still need to make the ones from the plans?

Sergeant
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:13 AM
 
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If you buy the dumpster nuts, you don't need to make the ones on the plan.

Re dtl26, don't make, use a couple of nuts as spacers instead.
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:20 PM
 
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Are there any taps that I absolutely must have? I plan on using screws where possible.

Sergeant
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:38 PM
 
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If I had to do it all again, I'd use 2.5 inch long wood screws. Pilot drill all holes is a must. I didn't use any of the dowel holes. I'd try to avoid using the tapped bolt designs. It will save money on bolt hardware which is expensive too.
Dave
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:51 AM
 
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If you have access to a biscuit joiner you can use that in some places to replace the dowels. I have biscuit joined and screwed a bunch of the parts together, and the strength seems really good.

I'll be posting pics hopefully this weekend of my progress so far.

-J
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