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JGRO Router Table Design For the discussion of JGRO designed router table.


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Old 02-13-2007, 04:51 AM
 
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Mach 3 is the way the go, did you download the demo, if not try it and run the roadrunner simulation, kinda cool to watch, and it'll get you familiar with the software too.
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by glidergider
Next I need to buy a 1 inch dia. hole saw. I was surprised how the 1.5" hole saw would gum up during the cutting.
Try a 1.5" Forstner bit instead. I had the same problem with the hole saws. Other people seemed to have better success with the Forstner (type) bits. Just a suggestion.

As to software, Mach3 and VCarvePro 3.1 seem to be the way to go. Both are relatively inexpensive but packed with more than enough features to "get the job done".
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Last edited by HayTay; 02-13-2007 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 02-13-2007, 09:54 PM
 
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I did download the Mach3 demo. I even uploaded some of my dxf files used with the foamcutting machine. They loaded easily and looked like they would cut without incident.

In Mach3, is there a tool that easily offsets the router path half the diameter of the cutting bit?

Also, I took a good look at vcarve family of software. There are three products. Does the VcarvePro (the most expensive) do the functions of all three software packages?

I'm not sure of the difference between vcut and vcarvePro. Any ideas on the differences?
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:24 PM
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I'm using Mach3 with great results and it'll do tool offsets, but I wouldn't say it's easy. It took me a lot of 'air' cutting to figure these out.

You have to manually edit the G Code by inserting a G41 (Radius Offset Left) or G42 (Offset Right) command followed by the tool radius or tool number. You can store your tool sizes in a table in Mach3 and reference them by number. The offset left or right is dependent on whether you're cutting inside or outside the vector as well as the direction of the toolpath (CW or CCW). You also have to set up for the offset by using the G41/G42 command prior to moving to where you're going to start cutting to give the machine the time to move into the offset. And something I still haven't figured out, when using the offset to cut arcs (G02/G03) the machine sometimes gets goofy and just goes off cutting circles.

Whenever I use offsets, I always run the program with the power off to my controller just to watch the cutting path in Mach3.
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:07 AM
 
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Edo,
Very interesting info. I wouldn't call it easy either. A puzzle for people who like puzzles.

Here is my progress for tonight. I had a discarded nylon cutting board laying around and I've been eyeing it closely. Wondering if the thinner section would work for the adjustment blocks. So on the small blocks I decided to try it. I'm very pleased. I have one more to make.

Heres a picture.
Dave
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Glidergider
I had a discarded nylon cutting board laying around and I've been eyeing it closely. Wondering if the thinner section would work for the adjustment blocks. So on the small blocks I decided to try it. I'm very pleased.
Dave,

With the thinner material, will there be enough clearance/room to (easily) turn the adjustment bolts when the adjustment blocks are attached to the machine?

I just wanted to drop you a note so you could make sure before you got too carried away.

G'night for now,
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:40 AM
 
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Hello Dave,

The 3 Vectric products offer different functionality.

VCarve Pro - General 2D machining with automatic cutter radius compensation for Profile and Pocket machining. Decorative 3D V Carving and precision engraving, Drilling and 3D Texturing.

VCPro imports most 2D vector based file formats - DXF, EPS, AI - with design editing tools for sizing, positioning, node editing-fixing etc. very good 3D toolpah preview, estimates the machining times and includes postprocessors for most CNC controllers.

Cut3D - Is a 3D machining package for cutting 3D models that have been designed using CAD / Design software such as Rhino3D, Silo, AutoCAD or designs available off the Internet.

Very straightforward to use with options to machine a single face of a model, 2 sides Top and Bottom or 4 sides top, bottom, front and back.

PhotoVCarve - Is for engraving / carving decorative pictures and lithophanes (3D back-lit photographs).

The files from PhotoVCarve can be imported into VCarve Pro and positioned relative to other design elements such as a decorative border and text. So for example a complete picture frame can be designed and machined.

I hope this above helps and let me know if you have any questions.

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Old 02-14-2007, 07:09 AM
 
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Tony Mac,
Thanks for the info. That is some pretty good looking software, but together the price!!!! Some of the stuff it can do looks amazing.

HeyTay,
Good point about it being to thin to make adjustments. I'll see if I can make it work, but yes the bolt heads will scrub the MDF base. I might try shimming, and if all else fails, I'll rebuild them with 3/4 inch. If it wasn't for the adjustments, I believe the strength is there.

I do have another question about the Z axis. With the gas pipes vertically suspended, what mechanical structure supports the gas pipes and resists the pipes from pursuing their ultimate goal of reaching the center of the earth?

Thanks for the comments. Building is fun!
Dave
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Old 02-16-2007, 12:17 PM
 
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Hey Glidergider, I've been following this thread with much interest since it looks like you and I are getting JGROs built almost in parallel. For the alignment blocks and antibacklash assemblies I used HDPE which is just a high-density version of most cutting board materials. It's fantastic stuff to work with and I found it was well within my budget to order from McMaster Carr. Check out my thread on HDPE blocks here to see all the details including links to McMaster and prices.

I'm approaching finally assembly myself this weekend, would have been done a lot sooner if my car didn't keep falling apart and eating all my spare time. Anyway, I'll probably have some photos to add to this thread come Monday if you all don't mind me jumping into the fray.

As for the z-axis rods I found that they are very securely held in place with the HDPE alignment block screws, and since there's not going to be any downward pressure from the rail slides (they will put pressure perpendicular to gravity) I don't expect much downward slipping. If it does turn out to be a problem, drilling a couple indents for the alignment block screws to sit in will probably correct any problems.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-16-2007, 01:47 PM
 
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Hi Jtheletter
Thanks for the notes. Go ahead and add some pictures. I cut the antibacklash nuts last night, and I'll post pics tonight.
Dave

Last edited by Glidergider; 02-16-2007 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 02-16-2007, 07:56 PM
 
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OK, I'm about to start assembling the Gantry. (cnc_assy07). On detail 16 and 17 (the sides), I think there is missing some callouts for tapped holes in the bottom edge.

I'm also wondering if there are written instructions for the Gantry assembly. I don't want to put it together crooked. If you know of some instructions, help me find them please.
Dave
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Old 02-16-2007, 08:25 PM
 
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Here's a picture of the Anti-backlash nuts. I'm happy with them. Made from my wifes discarded cutting board. I also mounted the small adjustment blocks.

Tonight I hope to get the major parts of the gantry assembled. Any advice on what to connect to what first would be appreciated.
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