Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table

[Glidergider]

Here's a couple more pieces of sign art for my girls. I'm using Vcarve to layout the signs. I'm wishing I could figure out what small change to make in order to get more stiffness.

[Glidergider]

Here's another work of art. Cut in MDF. I changed the flat bottom pocket cutting bit and that helped some. I also took smaller bites.

[Jason Marsha]

Good work on the signs, a bit of finishing and they wll be ready for paint.

What speed did you cut your signs at?
What is your plunge speed?

Jason

[Glidergider]

Jason,
I'm cutting slow, at 30 ipm, and slow it down further to 20. The plunge speeds are 20.
Dave

[voltsandbolts]

The signage is looking good. I just down loaded Vcarve, and plan on giving it a spin the only cutting tool I have to fit the new router is a ¼ end mill. What would you recommend for a minimum set of router bits? I feel a shopping spree coming on!

[Glidergider]

V&B,
Besides the 1/4 you already have, I'd get a 1/2 inch dia 90 degree v-bit. Although any diameter and angle will work. That's all I've used so far. I do see that a 1/8" diameter flat bottom will be handy in the future.

On the last "a-cuz" sign, I used a single edge 1/4 dia. bit. Straight flute. The sawdust doesn't clear as well with this type bit, but it wasn't a problem.
Dave

[Glidergider]

Here's a tip. My router is pretty flexible. (read "good enough"). So to compensate, I try to make all the V-cuts first. Particularly when there is a pocket right next to the v-cut. If a pocket exists, then the cutting load has a resultant side pressure that bends the gantry ever-so-slightly. You can see the results in the "Anna" sign. Look at the letter n, upper right edge. There are slight divets in the bevel. The letter 'A' lower right also has a divet.

[pntbllrsprky]

just read this whole thread again. Got all the pieces cut last night. Going to work on it all day.

Did you use woodscrews throughout the build? Did you bolt anything at all?

[Glidergider]

I installed the bolts according to the plans (about 80% as designed). If I did it again, I would use way more wood screws. This is me talking. I think wood screws and glue are just as strong as tapped bolt threads. Drill net-sized holes in the outer panel and pilot holes in the threaded panel. Glue all joints. Drill these holes in the same spots as the plan calls for bolts and tapped threads. The glue will resist the shearing forces and the wood screws will resist the prying forces.

Now, for the Adjustment blocks, I highly recommend the plastic. HDPE at 3/4 inch thick is best, however I used 7/16" thick cutting board in half of my adjustment blocks. The cutting board was free. The HDPE I bought at McMasterCarr $18 for a 12x12 inch piece.

If you use a thinner cutting board for the adjustment blocks, then some spacers or a different pipe adjustment screw is in order. A hex head cap screw would be perfect if you can find some.

I drilled all the holes in the plastic blocks using the drill press. That was fun. The final pilot holes in the mating wood were drilled at assembly. Alignment issues are so much easier for me when I did the pilot hole drilling at assembly.

Originally Posted by pntbllrsprky just read this whole thread again. Got all the pieces cut last night. Going to work on it all day. Did you use woodscrews throughout the build? Did you bolt anything at all?

[pntbllrsprky]

yea I picked up a 12x12 piece of HDPE. I have to figure out a way to cut it. I think I may use my band saw. I got lucky and work ordered and is paying for everything I need from mcmaster and msc and stuff (they have accounts already).

Thanks for the help. I promise to take tons of pics

[Glidergider]

I've been doing some work behind the scenes. I designed a new front cover for my Computer box driver case. It has a little removable slide to capture the gagle of wires.

I designed and built a vacuum attachment. Plus I bought a Harbor Freight 2 hp vacuum. (just like Tim Allen...Give me horsepower). And my daughter painted her A-Cuz sign. I guess she likes it.

[Glidergider]

I cut my HDPE plastic on my table saw. It cut great. The cutting board didn't do so well as it melts at a lower tempature. Yet it does cut. The band saw should be great too. The slower the blade speed the better to avoid melting.