Another new JGRO family member

[Fragge]

Well, since I like to read other peoples build threads I better post my own, so here it goes...

My goal is to build a pretty solid and straight JGRO router, since i live in sweden the JGRO plans has to be adapted to metric and since all the supplies are metric I've had to re-think a lot of the measurements.

I've got access to pretty nice woodworking machines so the cutting of the MDF has been a breeze(besides all of the extra thinking involved), all the parts came out really nice and straight.

For extra stability I've used solid steel linear guides, 25mm(1") for the Z axis and 22mm for the rest.

Steppers and all the electronics are on backorder at the supplier , "soon" the say...

Here's a video of the progress so far:
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-ianQSLVaU"]YouTube- Half built JGRO CNC machine

[Fragge]

I had to figure out a simple way to fixate the leadscrew to the endbearing to take the load of the steppers.
I had a idea about welding the bearing to the ledascrew but thougt is was a bit radical and I was worried about destroying the bearing...
But what the heck, I'll try everything once so I TIG welded it in place and it went just fine, the bearing spins freely and it didn't even damage the rubber seal.

[zeeway]

Your construction of the basic machine looks very good....

...however, welding on bearings is not recommended as it can easily damage the bearing. The other question that comes up is what do you do when you want to disassemble the bearing from the lead screw? Another solution would have been to use a clamp collar that locks onto the feed screw. Maybe next time.

[Fragge]

Well, the bearings are dirt cheap compared to buying nuts for the leadscrew so...
I tried this as a test too se if it messed up the bearing and it didn't, and these bearings won't rotate at high speeds, the important thing is that it spins freely and has no play in it...

It will be possible to remove the leadscrew from the machine to service it for some reason with the bearing still attached, and if the bearing should fail in a distant future it can easily be cut loose and replaced.

[forgetcolor]

I used the clamp-on collars from dumpstercnc to fix the lead screw to the bearing, and they work really nicely. I don't recall how much they were...maybe $12.

[wout]

Hi, i'm new here. Also very interested in building a jgro, and living in europe. So i'm currently converging everything in metric sizes and figuring out which parts to buy. Woud u mind sharing the dimensions/plans u used?

[Fragge]

Well, I didn't create new plans or drawings, I solved the issues as they came along.
Some parts you can translate directly but some you have to adapt, when you start building you'll get it...
I used 19mm MDF.

[gmfoster]

Well, I didn't create new plans or drawings, I solved the issues as they came along.
Some parts you can translate directly but some you have to adapt, when you start building you'll get it...
I used 19mm MDF.

You have done a great job of adapting the plans. Your JGRO looks very nice..
Garry

[Fragge]

Recieved the steppers yesterday, finally got it up and running.

"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtLS4YAPgPQ"]YouTube- It's alive!, JGRO CNC Router first cut

"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiSmvL-ufNw"]YouTube- It's alive 2, JGRO CNC router first cut

[dustin1706]

Nice work man!

How deep of passes can you make in MDF without flexing?

I am totally stealing your idea of using an angle bracket for a router mount!

I am going to use a rotozip temporarily while I try and find a router. (no one sells hitachi or makita locally)

[dustin1706]

XX Double Post XX

[Fragge]

I have'nt really exerimented with the depth, I made 1 mm passes in the video.
The spindle in the video is only temporary, I have a more powerful spindle sitting on my workbench, but I'm missing collets for it...