Urb's first attempt at the JGRO


Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 58

Thread: Urb's first attempt at the JGRO

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Urb's first attempt at the JGRO

    Been lurking around in here for a few months and I actually got around to starting my very own table. Originally I was going to make the buildyourowncnc design due to it's simplicity of construction but I opted for the JGRO design after much deliberation. I think the buildyourown is a excellent design for those new to fabrication but I wanted a bit of a challenge since this was more a hobby than a need. I did however order some parts from buildyourown which I am using for the JGRO version.


    Just in the first few pieces I have learned so much. I have a decient pile of scrap mdf (mistakes) to show for it. Most of the work I have done to date is jigs and guides.

    So one picture for now. I won't be able to get anything else done for a month or so due to holidays which is probably for the best. It'll give me time to work out some of my own ideas I want to incorporate.

    Things I have learned so far.

    1. Read and understand before you build.
    2. A drill press, router, and a mitre saw are your freinds.
    3. Cross dows make for strong joints.
    4. MDF is nasty stuff when you take a router too it.

    I think there's alot more I have learned but the MDF dust is starting to affect my ability to stay conscience.

    Please feel free to make any comments/suggestions. I could sure use them.

    Similar Threads:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-xaxis2-jpg  


  2. #2
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    775
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Jack,
    You're on the right track. I feel your pain with the mdf dust. I've got your solution right there in your back pocket too. Go to Harbor Freight and pickup a 2 hp dust collector. YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED!!!!! It's a must have tool. Get the $45 hose kit too. I'm not kidding, you will love the result. Hook it up to all your tools.
    dust collector:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45378
    hose kit:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93601

    Your z axis looks good. Keep up the good work. The JGRO is a great cnc router. I love mine.
    Dave



  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Just got back from vacation and the first thing I did want get back at the build. I've gotten alot completed in the last 2 days most important of all is pictures.

    I have to say I was a bit sceptical about tapping MDF but after creating the guide blocks I'm amazed how strong the stuff is. I realize you can't torque the screws hard but MDF will certainly do the job. Same goes for gas pipe. I didn't think they would be percise enough but they seem to be well within acceptable tollerances. Saves me some $$ instead of buying percision ground rod.

    I'm going to move onto the router clamps and order up some lead screws. J from buildyourown recommended buying the best leadscrews I could afford so I'm going with 1/2" percision ground acme rod and I'll pick up some anti-backlash nuts from dumpstercnc.

    Hopefully I'll have some updates within the next week or so but I feel I'm going to slow down as the larger parts of the project are next.

    Glider. I appreciate the advice. I've done some research on dust collection systems and I'm going to pick one up this week.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-linear_bearing1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-linear_bearing2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-x_assembly1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-x_assembly2-jpg  

    Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-z_assembly1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-z_assembly2-jpg  


  4. #4
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    27
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Nice. I'm planning on building the aluminum angle sliders this weekend. Did you use a table saw to cut the notches in the aluminum angle? How did you secure the aluminum to get the cuts done?



  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by matt888 View Post
    Nice. I'm planning on building the aluminum angle sliders this weekend. Did you use a table saw to cut the notches in the aluminum angle? How did you secure the aluminum to get the cuts done?
    Actually I used a bandsaw to make the notches then used a handfile to flatten them out. I just held the aluminum angle flat against the mitre guide and estimated the depth. I think clamping down a depth guide would've helped alot. My first attempt I just used a file but that was alot of work. Even notching the aluminum with a hacksaw would be a major time saver.

    Goodluck with your skate bearings.



  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I read somewhere on this forum that you make a "ugly" cnc router first so you can make the better one later. This is becoming very evident to me even in my early stages of my router. I don't think the JGRO is a bad design by any means but I'm aware of the flexing issues expecially when you expand the size of the design. Additionaly the cutting area on the JGRO seems small.

    So I have a question for those who have started with the JGRO and used that as a platform to build a Joe's version. As per the plans provided here is the cutting area of the JGRO suffice to cut the parts for the Joe's version without any modication?

    As for my JGRO I plan to buy the base assembly material tomorrow and before I do any cutting I wanted to know if I needed to extend the cutting bed.

    Edit. Seems the way to go is to break up the cuts. This will be interesting once I learn how to use the cnc router... if I ever finish the thing...

    Last edited by jckstrthmghty; 01-06-2008 at 12:55 PM.


  7. #7
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    England
    Posts
    32
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I used my JGRO to cut out all the parts for Joe's version although I did downsize my Joe's CNC by 10% to allow it to fit in the space allocated for it in my garage.

    As far as I can remember, the majority of the parts could be cut out without problem on the JGRO. There were a couple of parts such as the long parts of the base torsion box that needed to be cut in two parts and glued together. I also remember laying one part out diagonally over the JGRO bed so it would fit!



  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Good to know that most the parts for joes can be cut using JGRO. It's taking me forever to measure and cut with hand tools for this build. It'll be a relief to let the machine do the hard work for me on the next build.

    I've gotten some work done on the base support. I've decided to modify the design a bit to allow support for the y rail later on. I extended 2 of the inner runners and increased the stock to 3/4 from 1/2 mdf to allow me to attack a support structure close the center of the rail where it will sag the most. Hopefully the pictures will convey the general idea.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-support_bed1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-support_bed2-jpg  


  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Got a little more work done tonight which brought up a few questions.

    1. My bearing has a OD of 1.125. Should I just get a 1.125 spade bit for the mounting hole? I wanted to press fit the bearing into place but I don't know if they make a spade bit slighty smaller than 1.125. What have you guys done to fit the bearings?

    2. Are 305 oz motors overkill for this build?

    I'm starting to get a bit excited as I get closer to building the gantry. I should have most of the base completed tomorrow sometime. As I look back on the build to date I'm glad I started with a JGRO design. Although I think for some it would be possible, it would've been near impossible for me to build Joes or any other build with hand tools.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-yaxis_half-jpg  


  10. #10
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    775
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    That's good progress. Your 305 oz is not to big. I use 425. It won't be long now.



  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Just wanted to post some progress I've made. I'm still working out how I will build the y axis support. I really need to build a stand for this thing rather than using a cardboard box.

    Ordering lead screws next.

    Glider. Great! Maybe I'll go with bigger stepper motors too.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-base1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-gantry1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-gantry2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ybearingblock1-jpg  

    Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ybearingblock2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ysupport1-jpg  


  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Well it happened and alot sooner than it thought it would. One of my y axis adjustment blocks gave out as I was setting up my rails. I'll be heading out tomorrow to a local plastic shop to buy some acetal. I have a question. I've read about some people using 1/2" material so would it be ok for me to as well or should I just buy 3/4" stock?



  13. #13
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    775
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Buy the 3/4 if it's available. I built mine with 1/2, but after about 3 months, the bottom Y rail plastic failed because of the gravity load. The X rails also had problems after some usage, so I replaced them with 3/4 too. I still have the thin stuff on the z axis rails and the top of the Y axis rail.

    Bottom line, the 3/4 in plastic is worth it. 1/2 will work for a while, but it will eventually fail. Other issues too, like lack of hex head clearance is a issue.



  14. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I've learned that acetal is very expensive stuff. I was quoted at over $100 for a 12" x 12" sheet in 3/4" from a local supplier. Yikes! I know I can get the stuff cheaper but I thought I would just go the cheapest route to fix my adjustments block. This ofcourse means I have to put more time into the build but I figure that's the whole point of a hobby. What I decided to do was to notch out the inside of the block the width of a 1/4" nut. I used a jig saw much like you would do to make a dado cut on a table saw. I did the bottom and the outer side of the block where the most pressure would be exerted. I think this will be a good permenant solution and will perform the fix on all the y axis blocks.

    I've added some picture of my y axis guide rail bracing. There is a significant improvement in the rigidity of the table.

    Short list for the near future.

    1. Brace the x axis similar to Sieg's build.
    2. Add the cutting box.
    3. Order lead screws.
    4. Router mount.
    5. Polish the guide rails.

    It's finally starting to look like something.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ablockl1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-table1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-table2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ybrace1-jpg  

    Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ybrace2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-ybrace3-jpg  


  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Got the x axis braced up and the z and x rails sanded. Had to improvise a lathe using a old portable drill press. I used this setup to turn out a dowel that would fit inside 1/2" gas pipe. Tightening up the screw holds the pipe in place.

    I was contemplating leaving the gas pipe in it's original state when I first purchased it but now that I've done some sanding I'm very pleased with the results. I tried both emery paper and the foam sanding blocks. I like the sandpaper for leveling the pipe and the foam block for finishing off the work. I started with 150 grit but 80 grit would've been a better choice if I had any. I stopped at 220 grit.

    Bracing the x axis was a great improvement as well. I just have to turn the adjustment screws finger tight and it's a night and day difference in rigidity.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-lathe-1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-lathe-2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-mandrel-1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-x-axis-braced-1-jpg  

    Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-z-guide-rail-sanded-1-jpg  


  16. #16
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    28
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Looks really good. Why are you puting a wood plug in the gas pipe? Is there a benefit in doing that?

    Keep up the good work!



  17. #17
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    43
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jckstrthmghty View Post
    Got the x axis braced up and the z and x rails sanded. Had to improvise a lathe using a old portable drill press. I used this setup to turn out a dowel that would fit inside 1/2" gas pipe. Tightening up the screw holds the pipe in place.
    Hi Urb,

    I tried sanding/polishing my guide rails this weekend by turning down a few conical sections from some scrap wood, then setting up the pipe section between these on my Shopsmith - but I gave up the second time that the pipe went airborn. The end on my live center would not stay centered.

    I can see from your setup that it looks like you cut a split in the dowel so that it will expand, but what is on the screw tip that (when tightened) forces this to happen? Did you grind down the head of the bolt into a wedge shape or something?


    Also - from what I see, people are using 3/4 HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) plastic used for cutting boards to make their adjustment blocks. I got mine from an on-line cutting board site, and I think I paid about $12 for each 12" x 6" piece. The site had a "scrap" section. BTW - it also cuts and machines like butter...

    Keep the pictures coming!

    Don



  18. #18
    Registered
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    28
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by u77171 View Post
    Looks really good. Why are you puting a wood plug in the gas pipe? Is there a benefit in doing that?

    Keep up the good work!
    Nevemind, I get it now. You used the wood to spin the pipe to polish.



  19. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dbprojects View Post
    I can see from your setup that it looks like you cut a split in the dowel so that it will expand, but what is on the screw tip that (when tightened) forces this to happen? Did you grind down the head of the bolt into a wedge shape or something?
    Don. I used "Flat Head" machine screws. 1/4" by 4" long and I countersink the one end of the wood dowel. I hope the new picture shows exactly how I did mine. Although it's not in the pictures I would recommend using a lock washer. My setup had a tendacy to spin loose when I didn't use one. The 1/2" pipe verson broke at the cut so I used some masking tape to hold it together. Bandaid solution but worked well. I found no need to secure the other end other than a "L" bracket to stop the one end from rolling away.

    Thanks for the info on the cutting boards. I'm going to order some up soon.

    u77171. Yup.

    Pictures good. Without everyones contributions in this forum I would've had no clue how to start a project like this.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-mandrel2-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-screw1-jpg  


  20. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    483
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I've finished a router mount. It'll have to do for now until I can use the table to cut out something nice out of HDPE. I drilled out some bearing blocks for all the axis's. As with the router mount I can't wait to cut some nicer ones. I've decided to go with 1/2"-8 ACME 2 start for the z-axis. I'm contemplating going with 1/2"-10 ACME 5 start for the x and y but I'm not sure how they will perform with 305 oz steppers. Anyone have this setup that could shed some light on the performance? Guess I'll be doing some math later today.

    Back to my coffee.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-bearingmounts1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-routermounts1-jpg   Urb's first attempt at the JGRO-table3-jpg  


Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

Urb's first attempt at the JGRO

Urb's first attempt at the JGRO