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#1
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I have a new manual IH and am working on the CNC conversion. The stepper controller is done, and now working on the mechanics. My only still open item, is the installation of ball screw nuts, more direct, the attachment to the Y-table. Is there a design someone has done before? I have no information on the factory version. Any ideas are welcome. |
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#2
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| when i converted my round column mill, i basically just duplicated the factory nut except added a provision for the ballnut to screw into instead of the factory acme screw. worked like a charm. if you use a single center bolt it would make alignment a breeze but may not be ridgid enough for a full cnc. if your going to add bolts add a flange and drill the underside of the y axis cross slide. |
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#3
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| I am also staring my own cnc conversion of a new IH mill. It's still sitting on the original pallet in my garage. This will be my forth conversion. the previous were mini-mill using sterlingsteel plans, a mini lathe using sterlingsteel plans, a Sieg C-6 lathe from Grizzly using my own design (similar to the sterling steel design). I also converted the mini-mill Y axis direct drive to a reduction belt drive. That design is remarkably similar to the fignoogle mini-mill Y-axis drive in appareance. The IH Mill Y-axis would is remarkably similar to teh mini-mill Y-axis, so i would think a similar set-up would work. That's what I have planned anyway. Now a question. When changing a collet or removing the R-8 3/4" chuck, how do you keep the spindle from turning while loosening the drawbar? Rick (richlandrick) |
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#4
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RE keeping the spindle from turning, two options: 1. You can buy a wrench to fit the splines very cheaply off eBay, or you can make one with your CNC. 2. I built a powered drawbar out of an impact wrench. The impact wrench has so far never needed to keep the spindle from turning. It happily hammers things loose with the impacts. Cheers, BW |
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#5
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On my Lathemaster mill I usually just switch to the lowest gear and the torque needed to turn the spindle in low is pretty high and I just give the wrench a quick turn and after almost six years of doing it this way I have not had a problem with a tool turning in the collet. Altho I like the idea of a power drawbar like Bob mentioned. Once mine is cnc I will probably make one of those. Simple design and I am not sure it is even necessary to have the pneumatics. You have to manually insert the tool anyway so just pushing down on the impact unit while holding the collet to ensure it does not fall out would be no problem. Pneumatics are cool tho....peace... Pete Matos Matospeter@charter.net 865-363-9218 |
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#6
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| Thanks guys. It niether of those ideas gears or wrenching teh spindle occured to me. I assumed it would be like the mini-mill. A bar or something would slide into a hole. The IH install instructions are helpful. What's that standard ballscrew diameter for an IH? I wa think 3/4" and would like to use preloaded ballnuts. Any fantastic sources out there? |
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#7
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| I'm converting a Lathemaster RF45, I'm mounting the Yaxis from the back of the mill. My site has some detail of this: http://www.rlberg.com/ |
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#8
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Looking forward to the next installment of the RF45 Lathemaster build you are doing. How's it going!! peace... Pete Matos Matospeter@charter.net 865-363-9218 |
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#9
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I am expecting some ball screws with bearings and stuff from e-bay. Hope there is some useful. The controller is complete and working after I had to send a new Gecko back because it did not work. The problem was apparently found and I got a replacement. I used the A axis to drive my turntable the other day, with an MPG. Everything seems to be working as planed. Finally looked at the factory installation. It answered my questions. Thanks for pointing me to it. |
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