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That's a good idea, do you suggest a slot in the x + y axis also?
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I completed my Z-axis modification today and got started on a one shot oiling setup for my IH mill. I haven't done an awful lot on the latter except to cut some oil distribution grooves with a 1/8" ball mill. I tried the slide on the column after hand injecting some oil through the ball ports--this one shot oiling is going to be sweet! I was concerned the grooves would be too large, but they're perfect. Oil was spread very evenly across the ways and it made the carriage slide very nicely.
Next I need to remove the ball ports, install fittings, and decide what to do about lubing the Z-axis ballnut.
A couple pics:
More details on my site: http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm
Best,
BW
That's a good idea, do you suggest a slot in the x + y axis also?
Dennis
Yes, Keyteem, I'll be adding oiling grooves to both the x and y axes as well.
Best,
BW
I will keep an eye on your progress , here and at your site.
I plan on doing the same , just have to figure out how when
I own just one machine.
Dennis
Keyteem, I can think of several suggestions.
First, I think a one shot oiler has value even without the grooves. Take the X-axis, where the ball ports are in the middle. I prefer oil ports in the saddle where I can crank the axis back and forth and give squirts all along the length and not just in the middle. Thomas Powell built a nice system without any oil grooves.
Second, you may be able to find someone with a mill who can cut the grooves. It's dead easy to do, provided the mill is large enough.
Third, if all else failed, I think you could create a rig to do the job. I'd mount the 1/8" ball mill in a Dremel or similar and build a carriage that could travel along the ways to create a groove. It only has to be approximately right and is not a high accuracy job. You could probably manage to make a drill press do the job too if you have an X-Y table for it.
Or, you might make an assembly that can ride the dovetails of the saddle and Z-axis slide to cut grooves. It's a very light cut, so it wouldn't take much.
Cheers,
BW
Here are the various eBay goodies I've accumulated for the one shot oiling system:
I reckon that's just about $100 worth of stuff there. The key components are Legris push-in fittings and a set of flow control valves I found cheap:
The flow control valves let me individually tune each of the 9 circuits (one for each way side plus ball screw nut for each of 3 axes), and also incorporates a check valve so oil flow is always towards the ways.
I got grooves on another axis but then had to stop to help my brother make a new part for his Audi TT. Here's the saddle with one axis done:
More to come. I'm also planning an epoxy granite fill for the base and column.
Best,
BW
Nice work, Bob!
Scott
Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.
Scott, I have to give credit to you for the idea of using flow control valves. I saw that reading your thread on the oiling system you built.
Thanks for the idea!
BW
Yes I agree Bob, an oil system is a must have unless use of the machine is
limited . I think the grooves are the way to go, nice job.
I am gonna try a dremel maybe,and or thinking of using
a die grinder . nice job !
Dennis
Traditionally oil groves would be put in with a hammer and chisel.
Based on some of the old iron I have seen it was not a slow process, way faster then a die grinder will be. You just need to be willing to hammer on your new machine.
Some of the stuff I have seen looked almost as good as if it had been done with a ball end mill.
http://books.google.com/books?id=iD5...rr=1#PPA235,M1
If you use a hammer and chisel, you'll need to take care about the area that it raises around the groove. Some provision will need to be made to get rid of that.
Machine Tool reconditioning suggests hammer and chisel work be done before scraping, for that reason, or that you use a small hand grinder to avoid the problem.
Cheers,
BW
Traditional or not, I would not take a hammer and chisel to $2000 of cast iron.
Of course you did nice deburring, right?
Although I might try a Dremel tool and one of those 1/32" cut off wheels, but if the Dremel tool has that new auto speed control, it might make it lurch. Why did they put that ruiner/injurer circuit in there.
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