Squaring; wonder how this would work?

[BobWarfield]

Congratulations!

Best,

Bob (no relation despite the rumors) Warfield

[Ron111]

What's Moglice?
Sound kind of messy.

Ron (I'm not related either)

[BobWarfield]

Moglice is very cool stuff invented for machine refurbishing. Think of it as epoxy with teflon embedded. It is typically used to refurbish ways, but can be used for other precision surfaces as well. QSIMDO has found a clever application.

It can be injected, and it can also be molded. JerryFlyGuy is using something similar to try to create an absolutely flat mounting surface for his linear rails on his big gantry project.

Best,

BW

PS Went off on one of my many qixotic web searches to review my knowledge of Moglice. How about this machine tool maker that is using QSIMDO's exact approach on a high dollar machine: http://www.mech.utah.edu/~bamberg/re...(05-2000).html

The guy's PhD thesis is something I'm still downloading, but I thought this was interesting.

[QSIMDO]

Originally Posted by BobWarfield QSIMDO has found a clever application.

Oh, hell no, I can't take credit for that!

Moglice has been used for that for many years.

Check it out...http://www.moglice.com/newsite/frames/staticframe.html

[ozzie34231]

Of course if you want the best possible rigidity, set up with shims, take it apart and scrape the sides opposite the shims. You'll nedd a hoist to lift the column a dozen times or so, but you'll get the most solid setup.
Jerry

[miljnor]

I only have one word for that statement man:

Hobby!

or maybe two words: too lazy

[Harlow]

Epoxy + Iron Oxide. You can mix Epoxy with Iron Oxide, Aluminum Powder or other metal powder to make a paste. You probably have enough sitting around your grinder. You should get about 50/50 by volume using off the shelf epoxy as it is rather thick. Thinner epoxy or heating thick stuff and you can get a higher metal ratio. Don't go over 70% metal to 30% epoxy.

Once you have it shimmed or adjusted where you want, raise it up +- .004. Coat the bottom of your column and the base where it contacts with a good coat of car wax, paste floor wax or grease. That will keep it from sticking.

Shove the epoxy in with a feeler guage or shim stock. As the epoxy cures it heats up and expands a little. It will go from liquid to gel to semi-solid to solid as it cures. You want to drop the column back down between the semi-solid and solid stage. Depending on the epoxy you use the time will vary. Do a test mix about the same thickness as the void to fill first. Thickness does matter. It effects the cure rate. If you put an IR temp guage on it you will see the temp rise. Check it occasionally and when your fingernail can still make an easy impression it is right. That's when to drop and tighten.

Don't use for at least 24hrs. 48 is better. If you pack it in good you will have 100% contact area. Don't use the 5 minute Epoxy. Use a medium set. Epoxy is very temp sensitive. You can thin it easily with a heat gun. Heat also reduces working and cure time.

Harlow
http://cncbridges.com/

[philbur]

Sounds like a very dodge procedure for a column that needs to be perfectly square with the table. If you mix solid material in the epoxy and this solid is between the shim and the casting then the squareness result will surely be effected. Also you will never extrude the last fraction of epoxy from between the casting and the shim so this will effect acuracy also.

Regards
Phil

Originally Posted by Harlow Epoxy + Iron Oxide. You can mix Epoxy with Iron Oxide, Aluminum Powder or other metal powder to make a paste. You probably have enough sitting around your grinder. You should get about 50/50 by volume using off the shelf epoxy as it is rather thick. Thinner epoxy or heating thick stuff and you can get a higher metal ratio. Don't go over 70% metal to 30% epoxy. Once you have it shimmed or adjusted where you want, raise it up +- .004. Coat the bottom of your column and the base where it contacts with a good coat of car wax, paste floor wax or grease. That will keep it from sticking. Shove the epoxy in with a feeler guage or shim stock. As the epoxy cures it heats up and expands a little. It will go from liquid to gel to semi-solid to solid as it cures. You want to drop the column back down between the semi-solid and solid stage. Depending on the epoxy you use the time will vary. Do a test mix about the same thickness as the void to fill first. Thickness does matter. It effects the cure rate. If you put an IR temp guage on it you will see the temp rise. Check it occasionally and when your fingernail can still make an easy impression it is right. That's when to drop and tighten. Don't use for at least 24hrs. 48 is better. If you pack it in good you will have 100% contact area. Don't use the 5 minute Epoxy. Use a medium set. Epoxy is very temp sensitive. You can thin it easily with a heat gun. Heat also reduces working and cure time. Harlow http://cncbridges.com/

[Harlow]

Also you will never extrude the last fraction of epoxy from between the casting and the shim so this will effect acuracy also.

Common sense should tell you not to put the epoxy where the shims are. Filling voids would mean the area not covered by the shims.

Harlow

http://cncbridges.com/

[Cruiser]

With my system of 5/8' fine set screw, and the cannibalism of some feeler gauges, and torque to 90 in steps adjusting as you go you will find it to be solid ! just keep enough of the split lock washers compressed yet loose enough to allow the set to move collumn. I only needed feelers of .002 to .004 as i recall maybe more but it wasn't much, I've pushed a large end mill in some steel to test it and the only lacking was in the 'z' saddle and i've tightened it since, and of course my machine enclosure did a bit of a dance and resounded the music, but the collumn held fast and solid ! If I feel the need to adjust it later on, it'll be easy and i don't have to chip away epoxy and i'll be done before you will !