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| I.C. Engines Discuss home made Internal Combustion engines here! |
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#13
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| Yes it was this year. Sorry no pictures. Camera battery died after only 8 pictures. I remember it because the casting was extremely nice. There was no one behind the table to ask about it. |
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#15
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| How about a NON combustion engine. Runs on compressed Co2 or compressed air. Small part count and forgiving on fit. Try this web site for free plans. Its a cool little project and if the parts are too small, Double the size of everything and make a big one. Plans are free http://www.floridaame.org/GalleryPages/g1Non0125.htm http://www.floridaame.org/GalleryPages/g1Non0132.htm I also have plans for a 4 cylinder aircraft engine and a V8 automotive engine both based on the V1 but they are unproven. ( Did'nt build them yet) |
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#16
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| Here's a carbon-based humanoid powered engine Non-IC, non-steam, non-air, non-CO2. From Home Shop Machinist May/June 2006. Flywheel casting from PM Research PM Research main flywheel casting page A few pix of mine, turned out pretty nicely. I haven't had the chance to polish it up yet. Stock dimensions from the print. One change I did was to make brass sleeves/bushings and use socket head cap screws for the pivot points instead of making the brass screw/bushing as called for in the print. I had about 4 weeks left in the semester after finishing my 2nd steam engine, so that was a lot simpler and faster since I wanted to finish this engine by the end of my shop class semester (this week). Another minor change you can see in the 2nd picture was to use a set screw on the flywheel, this way you can experiment using different flywheels very easily. I used an 8-32 set screw, bit overkill but easy to find. You might also consider using a bigger set screw on the small steel pivot/eccentric plate (or whatever it's called) on the other end of the flywheel axle. The 4-40 set screw takes a rather tiny allen wrench something like 0.050 that can get lost very easily. Though I'd check the larger hole diameter 1st to see that a bigger set screw would fit in the plate thickness. I don't remember if it was 1/8" or 1/4" ?? ![]() ![]() ![]() Here's a short video of it running. My first steam engine model. My 2nd steam engine model (PM Research wobbler/oscillator) I would highly recommend getting a heavier flywheel than I used. Try a heavier brass one, or at least a larger diameter aluminum one. My engine runs very smoothly, there's very little play and no binding in the axles/joints and everything moves pretty freely. As expected, there are 2 dead spots in the linkage motion used. The flywheel momentum is what's supposed to get the linkage/motion past those dead spots. A heavier flywheel will help a LOT to power past those dead spots (finger lever all the way up and all the way down). It's kinda fun to try to get a steady rhythm going in either direction. Takes a bit of practice. Incidentally, just pushing down on the lever is a single-acting engine, while pushing down/pulling up on the lever would be a double-acting engine/motion. My shop instructor is planning on changing the beginning machine shop class project to this finger engine. It's much simpler to make than the C-clamp that's been the stock beginning project for decades. That'll allow more students to finish a project. He's planning on CNC-ing the flywheel so the students get an intro to CNC right off the bat. He'll CAD/CAM it, then have the students put in the aluminum plate and press the start button. I think that's a great idea ! Mike |
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#17
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| I played with one of those at the NAMES show. Alot harder than it looks if you want high speed. Nice Work!! |
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#19
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Could'nt wait. Had to build it!! I did'nt use the hex for the crankcase. Used the hex for the intake until one of them came out of the lathe and flew across the room. Made a fancy prop mount. Other than that it is to Jerry's print. |
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