F1 engine project

[RotarySMP]

The Cylinder bore (liner) is a separate piece, which is fitted into the block. Between the liner and the block are coolant passages, hence wet liner. The advantage include good cooling and simplicity. You can have Aluminium block without the process complexity of Nicosil etc. The disadvantages include sealing and dissimilar metal corrosion.

[FPV_GTp]

woooooooooo ur the BEST OF THE BEST Stevie , love the work u do and its AAA- grade in my books

hope u have recovered from the cold

cheers

ps ; I have now turned to a cnczone.com GROUPY , LOL


sleeve preperation link

http://www.circleperformance.com/cnc_block_prep.htm

have a look at some hi=performance piston manufactures sites also ,
JE pistons , Ross racing pistons , Arias pistons , Probe , Mahle motorsports i'm under the impression make the F1 pistons and can supply more piston people if needed

Have a look at the www.manleyperformance.com they make great hi-po parts pistons , bearings , valves , conrods


Have a look at this site for engine block design www.worldcastings.com
and this site makes interesteing reading www.torque-power.com.au , www.regismfg.com/Page_27 , www.bhjinc.com/1products/0-landing ,
http://bobshores.com/pages/1/index.htm , www.jepistons.com , www.probeindustries.com , www.torque-power.com.au

this site is interesting www.dmdaustralia.com.au

[NC Cams]

Keep something in mind: GOOD pistons do NOT have round skirts.

The piston you're making is a "solid type, slipper skirt" design. The piston actually is going to want to be "oval" with the major diameter axis coincident with the major thrust face of the skirt - how much ovality depends on the amount of heat it will see in the combustion champer. This intentionaly out of roundness is called the "piston cam". Some piston makers even put "cam" into the ring lands.

The piston wants to be SMALLER at the top of skirt than at the bottom - the ring lands want to be smaller yet. Reason: top of piston grows more and faster than tail of the skirt. You can either run a straight taper or a "barrel shape" - this feature is called "profile".

Most forged racing pistons run barrel from just below ring land to pin C/L and then regular straight taper from there to bottom of skirt.

I"d suggest you look at a similarly shaped forged auto piston for ideas and/or guidance with regard to cam and profile. You'd be surprised at how much cam and profile they have....

If you use a non-silicon alloy (2618 is suggested), you'll need MORE static clearance. 2618 has better hot strength and scuffs easier. This is a typical "california hot rod piston alloy".

If you use a utectic silicon alloy (4043 is suggested), you can get by with a bit less static clearance. Better scuff resistance at tighter clearances is the neat feature of this alloy. A roughly equivalent alloy was used predominantly by TRW for their famous racing pistons for many years.

Hype-rutectic piston alloys are hard to machine and get in small quantities.

Watch your pin material. Avoid tool steel as it can be hard on the pin bores. Carbuized 1020 pins would work fine - hardened and drawn 4150 would be nearly bullet proof. You could even use an appropriately sized needle bearing for an off the shelf part.

I'd press (thermal shrink fit acually) the pin into the rod to simplify things (0.0003" to 0.0005" press in rod with room temp slip in piston should work fine). Don't forget pin oilers (splash or jet of some king).

[Stevie]

< hope u have recovered from the cold >

Actually I found out I had super high blood pressure 210/165; I'm now on Meds for that but I also seem to have a kidey problem that was caused by the high BP; plus an enlarged heart which will go back to normal once the meds have time to work their magic

I'll be going for a test in 8 days

Basically all my projects got halted other than barrel production
I'll be getting back to normal as my state improves

[rhino]

thats a good enough excuse to have a few sick days from work and concentrate on your engine.

all jokes aside, hope you get well soon!

rhino

[FPV_GTp]

hi Stevie

good to see u back , look after urself

cheers

[FPV_GTp]

hi Stevie

how things going Stevie ? any updates on this project

here is a interesting site i accidently come across have a look CNC-machined miniature engine masterpiece

link is http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Tomlinson.htm

Hope things are well your end

cheers

[Stevie]

Originally Posted by FPV_GTp hi Stevie how things going Stevie ? any updates on this project here is a interesting site i accidently come across have a look CNC-machined miniature engine masterpiece link is http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Tomlinson.htm Hope things are well your end cheers

just changed amount of the meds; the first one started to be in-effective; went from 240mg to 360mg
seems to have made a significant reduction in pressure
I am thinking about this project again; which seemed too much 3 weeks ago

[robynet]

hello stevie

that's ok?

the project?

[miljnor]

We got word from a freind of stevies that he died from a heart attack (if memory serves).

sorry man.

He was one of the best contributors to the sight!

[Smurf208]

What about instead of 4 small valves you make 1 big one per cylinder??? Would that even work to your advantage if possible tho...??prolly not but just a thought

[elmerfud]

Sorry to hear steve died,
Listen here scale engine fans, i come bearing gifts, here is an official set of figures for the 2000 f1 ferrari engine.
Type 049
Configuration: 90 degree V
Capacity: 2,997cc
Bore: 96.0
Stroke: 41.4
Conrod: 110.0
Compression ratio: 12.0 to 1
Length: 615 to flywheel
Width: 597.6
Height: 365.5
Weight: 106kg with clutch
C of G height: 187
Firing order: 1-10-5-6-2-9-3-8-4-7
Cylinder #1: Front right
Valvesprings: Pnuematic pressurised to 200 bar
700cc nitrogen canister
Included valve angle: 25 degrees in side view
6 degrees in front view
Camshaft drive: Straight cut gears, locked
ECU: Magneti Marelli Step 9
Fuel system: One Marelli injector per cyl
10 bar pressure
Mechanical fuel pump
Cooling system: Centrifigal pump 3.5 to 3.75 bar
Oil system: Gear type pressure pump at 1 to 2 bar
10 eaton type scavenge crankcase
2 eaton type scavenge cylinder heads
1 eaton type de-aerator
Intake system: Electrohydraulic butterfly control
Electrohydraulic variable length air horns
Cylinder block: Investment cast aluminium, 7 percent silicon
Cylinder head: Sand cast aluminium
Rocker covers: Investment cast aluminium
Liners: Wet type, nikasil coated alloy
Crankshaft: Vacuum cast extruded billet
Six main bearing
Tungsten balance weights
Camshaft: Vacuum cast extruded billet
Intake valves: 40.4 titanium
Exhaust valves: 33.0 ceramic coated titanium
Valve lift: 15.5 intake
14.1 exhaust
Pistons: Mahle forging
Aluminium/beryllium (later banned)
Connecting rod: Forged titanium
Torsional dampers: Rear mounted on camshafts
Exhaust system: Inconel, 5 into 1

The book this came from had lots of cad scans for you to reverse engineer.
I tried cad tracing the motor in 2005, still have not finished copying (2007), my eyes get sore. Anthony Wright 'Inside the Ferrari F2000' I think its called. Keep at it guys! One day I'd love to make a scale f1 motor myself.