PM45 DTHC install

[creepy]

Hello - nice to see this Hypertherm forum up, i'm a repeat customer having purchased a Powermax45 after being pleased with a 380 for a few years now.

I'm installing the C&Cnc DTHC in a powermax45 to be run on a BullTear table.

I've found the info to tap into raw arc voltage here, avoiding the 50:1 reduction at the rear port.
https://www.hypertherm.com/library/f...)/806200r1.pdf

Now about the "Ark OK" terminals on the DTHC board - is it as simple as hooking up to the correct pins on the rear connector? (I'll be running a machine torch)

pinout diagram here...
https://www.hypertherm.com/library/f...)/806180r1.pdf

So I need to use pins 3 and 4 for the Start circuit?

Another way to look at it...does Hypertherm's "Start" = C&Cnc "Ark Ok"?

thx!

[jimcolt]

C&C calls it "arc good" I think......it is looking for a contact closure from the plasma indicating that the plasma has transferred (and current is flowing) to the plate. The output from the 45 are the pins on the rear connector labeled "arc transfer" or "machine motion". These connections are made from an internal mechanical relay that closes when the arc is cutting metal, and opens when the cutting stops.

Pins 3 and 4 are the plasma start input.....with the machine torch installed, connect 3 and 4 and the plasma will start, disconnect an it will stop. These connections are disabled when a hand torch is installed for safety reasons.

Good luck, Jim Colt

Hello - nice to see this Hypertherm forum up, i'm a repeat customer having purchased a Powermax45 after being pleased with a 380 for a few years now.

I'm installing the C&Cnc DTHC in a powermax45 to be run on a BullTear table.

I've found the info to tap into raw arc voltage here, avoiding the 50:1 reduction at the rear port.
https://www.hypertherm.com/library/f...)/806200r1.pdf

Now about the "Ark OK" terminals on the DTHC board - is it as simple as hooking up to the correct pins on the rear connector? (I'll be running a machine torch)

pinout diagram here...
https://www.hypertherm.com/library/f...)/806180r1.pdf

So I need to use pins 3 and 4 for the Start circuit?

Another way to look at it...does Hypertherm's "Start" = C&Cnc "Ark Ok"?

thx!

[creepy]

I've yet to see pics of this online....how about taking a look at my install so far?

First is accessing raw arc voltage. I found this to be easy and straightforward. Ground clamp is very easy to trace. J21.

The white wire at J19 goes over to the "big wire" powering the torch. Also pretty easy to trace.



Used 18AWG 2 wire (it looks like its sheilded, if that's what the foil type stuff is inside the insulation, manual says to use unsheilded, is this an issue?)

Ran it thru the grommet by folding up one of the little triangles, it wouldn't pass thru the sock. Not much room to fool with this unless you start taking stuff apart, no thanks. Then drilled out the spare strain relief hole at the rear to pass the wires thru. Took care that the wires didn't touch anything and weren't tight anywhere.

board side:


fan side (running along the sock, to the grommet)


run to spare port at rear (requires drilling out.)


and finally the connections. Very detailed placement instructions in the link in the first post. I didn't have a small enough ring terminal to place the J19 terminal exactly as per the service bulletin, but this looks fine to me. there is a bit of a gap between the board and the top terminal.



So those two wires get run back to the C&Cnc DTHC board, below.



Now the following seems counter-intuative...looking for confirmation. The ground is positive?

Upper right corner - "tip volts workclamp positive" - gets the lead from J21 (the ground clamp)

Lower left corner - "tip volt electrode negative" - gets the lead from J19 (the white wire to torch)

How am I doing? I'm a newb

[jimcolt]

The work clamp (it is not officially called "ground") is positive........the electrode (the big wire powering the torch) in the torch is negative. The reason that unshielded wire is recomended by Hypertherm...is because our engineers figured that there was not a need for shielding on this signal....if you want to use shielded wire...there is no problem with that.

I always have an issue with C&C calling the arc voltage "tip volts".....for one thing, a Hypertherm torch does not have a tip.....it has a nozzle, an electrode, and a shield. Other manufacturers call their nozzle a "tip"......but the nozzle has nothing to do with arc voltage as used in a torch height control. The C&C THC reads the voltage between the negative electrode and the positive plate.....therefore, it is not tip volts, rather it is arc volts!

Looks like a first class install.....make sure the ring terminals do not contact other traces on the PC board. And keep your cool when reinstalling the cover on the 45.....it can be a little frustrating!

Best regards, Jim

I've yet to see pics of this online....how about taking a look at my install so far?

First is accessing raw arc voltage. I found this to be easy and straightforward. Ground clamp is very easy to trace. J21.

The white wire at J19 goes over to the "big wire" powering the torch. Also pretty easy to trace.



Used 18AWG 2 wire (it looks like its sheilded, if that's what the foil type stuff is inside the insulation, manual says to use unsheilded, is this an issue?)

Ran it thru the grommet by folding up one of the little triangles, it wouldn't pass thru the sock. Not much room to fool with this unless you start taking stuff apart, no thanks. Then drilled out the spare strain relief hole at the rear to pass the wires thru. Took care that the wires didn't touch anything and weren't tight anywhere.

board side:


fan side (running along the sock, to the grommet)


run to spare port at rear (requires drilling out.)


and finally the connections. Very detailed placement instructions in the link in the first post. I didn't have a small enough ring terminal to place the J19 terminal exactly as per the service bulletin, but this looks fine to me. there is a bit of a gap between the board and the top terminal.



So those two wires get run back to the C&Cnc DTHC board, below.



Now the following seems counter-intuative...looking for confirmation. The ground is positive?

Upper right corner - "tip volts workclamp positive" - gets the lead from J21 (the ground clamp)

Lower left corner - "tip volt electrode negative" - gets the lead from J19 (the white wire to torch)

How am I doing? I'm a newb

[adscnc]

I'm about to do exactly the same, (pmax45 to candcnc DTHC) so this will really help me. Thanks for the great photos.

Al

[creepy]

Yeah, I'm glad its a help. I'm used to the Jeep world of 500 pics of every mod ever done, so its natural to post this stuff here. I imagine the C&CNC DTHC and PM45 are going to be a very common combo.

I'm just heading out to the garage to do the rest of the DTHC card wiring, got one of the electronics guys at work to make me up some wires that will pin into the Hypertherm ports. pics to come

[adscnc]

The only diference with my set up will be that I have bought a plug that fits into the machine torch socket. it needs a couple of extra pins but should be a neat way of doing it. allows it do be disconnected,Got the idea from "bigtoy302"

[creepy]

Does the polarity of the arc voltage signal matter?

I don't want to take the cover off again, and I can't see the wire colors in my pics.

re-did the strain relief on the high voltage lines. the first one was a little shady.




perfect, you can't tug the wire.


This circuit board interfaces the plasma cutter. It takes the raw arc voltage and provides the signal to the controller so it can montor and change the arc gap in real time. The torch tip will raise and lower as it cuts to maintain the perfect arc gap.

It also has torch on/off, and senses when plasma arc is ready to cut after the initial firing.



i need to mount the board near the plasma, but it won't fit inside. Hmm, what's cheap or free, in my house? tupperware? naw, too ugly.

Umm.....dang, what about all those model cars i got, inside one of them? lol Oh wait! That gives me an idea...a display case!

I store the model collection at my buddies place, I called him and asked him to go out and grab me a display case. Went and picked it up, looks like it will work.

I scabbed all the hardware off an old computer to mount it with.


Made up some wire ends for the PM45 rear pinout port. One of the maintenance guys at work helped me, he had the special $$$$ crimpers. Still using the 18AWG.


"heatshrank" the pinouts "heatshrunk"? whatever.


*sigh*......get down Pinion. : Nosy enough?


pinouts for "torch on/off" 3&4.


pinouts for "arc transfer", also called "ok to move" 12&14


arc voltage to the right, trigger at top, arc transfer left




freakin sweet, it fits on the top of the plasma perfectly. 8-) What are the odds of that!?
I removed the plasma case again and mounted the display case. super happy with it.


There is a DB9 cable out to the controller too, I put that to the front as the grounds must be isolated between the plasma setup and the controller . Wires will be run away from each other, the plasma chassis grounds to the table, the controller/pc thru the AC lines only. please correct me if I'm wrong.


;D epoxied that little guy in there. looks like 42's and no lift and a Creepy sticker to round off the install. Tested the card, LED on, it works, this is a BIG step towards making sparks by the weekend.


I always say "i hate wiring" , but I think i like it, i just don't like being upside down under a dash.

[jimcolt]

The polarity does matter.....you can easily ring out the wires. Do a continuity check from the Powermax45 ground clamp to the wires. The ground clamp is positive, the other is negative.

Jim Colt

[creepy]

i was able to zoom in on a pic, but I will do that too to be sure. the pic is a bit fuzzy.

thx for quick response.

[creepy]

yep, the continuity check from the Powermax45 ground clamp to the work clamp on the card worked perfect to confirm the polarity. thx.

torch fires manually from mach3, getting soo close to cutting a part.

[creepy]

thx for the help!