Powermax 85 Machine Torch, any breakages?

[BioHazard73]

I had a tip up break the machine torch plastic tube while cutting on my table, it broke the small 1" coupler, Hyperthem was great sent me the parts out free of charge and got me back up and running quickly. I took this as a freak thing but the other day when I went to change the consumables the torch broke again. This time it broke below the coupler on the lowest part in the threads.

I am trying to get parts to fix it but I feel like this is going to be a common problem, is there a way other then building a high dollar magnetic breakaway, to protect the rather fragile plastic tube?

Am I the only one with this issue?

I am not posting here to slam Hyperthem, I am just looking for ideas to improve strength when I screw up the g-code and my torch dives...

[magma-joe]

I had a tip up break the machine torch plastic tube while cutting on my table, it broke the small 1" coupler, Hyperthem was great sent me the parts out free of charge and got me back up and running quickly. I took this as a freak thing but the other day when I went to change the consumables the torch broke again. This time it broke below the coupler on the lowest part in the threads.

I am trying to get parts to fix it but I feel like this is going to be a common problem, is there a way other then building a high dollar magnetic breakaway, to protect the rather fragile plastic tube?

Am I the only one with this issue?

I am not posting here to slam Hyperthem, I am just looking for ideas to improve strength when I screw up the g-code and my torch dives...

Biohazard73,

Could you post some pics? I ordered an 85 2 weeks ago, still waiting for it to arrive. If there is a universal problem on these torches it would be nice to know what to be watching for. Thanks,

Magma-joe

[BioHazard73]

I don't think its a universal "problem" I think since the industry standard for a machine torch OD is set Hypertherm built it to fit inside standard holders. It did leave the wall thickness a bit thin only .042" left after threads are cut but if I could perfect my G-Code and stop stupid mistakes on my part it would be fine.. Here are some pics...

[magma-joe]

Biohazard73,

Thanks for the pics. I can see what you are referring to now. Perhaps the torch being the weak link saved further damage to your gantry? No matter what though, I don't think there is any way around a breakaway torch holder.

With CNC plasma cutting there is no escape, tip ups and collisions are going to happen. After having my table for several years I finally broke down and purchased a magnetic breakaway assembly with a micro switch that shuts down the machine. It works great and I no longer worry when I walk away from the table while it is cutting.

I bought mine from Dynatorch. Although it was not a low cost accessory, for what it does I feel it was well worth the money. You might make your own? Look at this thread about magnetic torch holders. The person who started the thread was breaking the sleeves on a T60M torch which would be a Powermax 1000.

WSS posted some pics of a low cost magnetic version of one that he made. I thought it was an exellent idea. You can also switch the magnet on and off if you need to remove the torch.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_pl...way_torch.html

I also attached some pics of mine.

Magma-joe

[BioHazard73]

Hypertherm is fixing me up with the new parts to repair it again free of charge, but I spoke with them about ways to strengthen the tube and I think I may make a metal tube to slip over the assembly to prevent future breakages. Their engineers are looking into this issue to see if its just me being stupid or a real world problem.

I like the dynatorch breakaway, the price is cheaper then other units I have seen I may look into it down the road. I have to much invested in this machine, I gotta see some return on investment before I spend more cash.

Thanks for the response...

[WSS]

WSS posted some pics of a low cost magnetic version of one that he made. I thought it was an exellent idea. You can also switch the magnet on and off if you need to remove the torch.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_pl...way_torch.html

Magma-joe

Wow, my table does not look like that any more! I just looked at that link when it was new. Here is a recent pic of some "upgrades" to the torch holder. It does work good, today I was cutting 2.5" x 120" strips of 1/4" AR400 with a really thin web, one of the strips buckled upward instantly and lifted the torch by the side of the shield right off the beakaway. A direct pop from the bottom. I have the lost arc checked and it stopped right away. reset and hit restart, no worries.

WSS

[BTA PLASMA]

Magnets are a real pain when your CNC plasma cutting they fill up with small pieces of dust very fast. Use a spring/cup combo and you will never break again.

[WSS]

Magnets are a real pain when your CNC plasma cutting they fill up with small pieces of dust very fast. Use a spring/cup combo and you will never break again.

magswitch magnets don't hold the dust when turned off. Whenever you turn the handle the dust drops. In the off position, the holder has no magnetic attraction at all.

WSS

[BTA PLASMA]

If you using an aluminum body you are correct but if you have any steel in that body the magnets will magnetize the steel and hold onto fine iron particles. I dont know why with the problems the magnets can cause why anyone uses them anymore. The spring cup combo is cheaper and more efficient.

[BioHazard73]

The spring cup combo is cheaper and more efficient.

Could you elaborate on this? I have to do something...

[BTA PLASMA]

All you need to do is go to your hardware store and get some long springs and usethem to keep the torch in one side of a open clamp. If your springs are tight enough the limit switch will trip (if your not using ohmic) without moving your torch and the next time you have a tipup it will simply pull the torch head out of the open clamp and the spring will extend.

[magma-joe]

If you using an aluminum body you are correct but if you have any steel in that body the magnets will magnetize the steel and hold onto fine iron particles. I dont know why with the problems the magnets can cause why anyone uses them anymore. The spring cup combo is cheaper and more efficient.

BTA PLASMA,

Is this the type of spring cup combos you are referring to?

http://www.retroplasma.com/documents...&%20RSVS-5.pdf

Collision Sensors: Protect your Investment from Costly Crashes with RAD Collision Sensors.

http://www.romheld.com.au/pdf/ATI4.pdf

ATI Industrial Automation: Robotic Collision Sensors

http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads...49_64-2203.pdf

You tube video [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlJLVGRbrOk"]YouTube - ATI Tool Changers and Collision Sensors used in Lab Automation[/nomedia]


Before I purchased the Dynatorch magnetic break away I did alot of research on break away designs. The spring cup sensor is normally used on robot arms and I believe are much more suited for that purpose rather than a plasma torch. The thickness of the spring cup style is typicly 3" +. The prices I found were about $1000.00.

The main thing I did not like about the spring cup was mounting the torch 3 + inches away from the torch slide. The magnetic style is low profile. It seems many major manufactures use them as opposed to the spring cup style. Mine works excellent. Here are some links to some magnetic style breakaways.

http://www.mg-systems-welding.com/Po...F/surestop.pdf

http://www.mg-systems-welding.com/Po...PDF/ol100s.pdf

http://www.consolidatedsteelinc.com/...bre%203000.pdf

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I do think the switchable design WSS came up with is the best low cost break away system I have seen. A vendor supplied $800 to $1000 magnetic or spring cup break away purchase is alot of money.


Magma-joe