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#1
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I've started messing about with the 3D mould option on my ultimax 3 control to try and learn more about it. I understand the concept and I can program simple jobs now. I've machined a gutter shaped profile translated in the Y axis, with a ball nosed cutter. What I need to know is how to do a finishing cut. I would like to rough the pocket out and then finish with a finer cut, either with the same cutter or a smaller one, simply to try and save time on the job. How is this done? I also got an error message saying "Motion control queue runout in the x,y,z, axis". I think this was because I had the feedrate too high to try ans speed the job up and it was taking lots of very small cuts. Any help? |
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#2
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| I think there is a parameter named allowance in the 3d mold block. Use it. When you use end mill for rough (not ball) then you receive additional allowance with maximum thickness equal radius of the tool (in Z direction). Ultimax compensates end mills like ball mills but adds to length of end mills "virtual ball end". For example: 1. Mill rough by end mill. Set some allowance. 2. Mill semi rough by bigger ball. Set some smaller allowance. 3. Mill finish by smaller ball without allowance. You have to do it in 3 blocks. Use copy range of blocks to do it.
__________________ Sorry that my English is like... |
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#3
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| I just use the same endmill,but give it a roughing "number" and specify it as .010" bigger in diameter than it is. Also adjust the tool zero by .005" This is the roughing pass and then full size on finish. Like FAJA mentioned, you can also do a "copy" and copy all blocks with the full size cutter number as the tool in those finishing blocks, and remove the peck depth on those blocks for a final pass since you roughed it out already. |
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#4
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| Ok, that sounds interesting, remove the peck depth. This is the bit that I was having trouble understanding. How to finish a pocket at full depth that has already been roughed out. So if I did it like this. In the first block have a roughing peck depth and stepover but leave a stock allowance for finishing. Then copy the block and use a finishing stepover but remove the peck depth. So in the finishing cut it will go straight down to the finish surface and just do one pass along the surface at the programmed stepover. Have I understood that correctly. And like Faja says, I could even do it in three stages in the same way. I'll give this a try and report back soon. Any more help is also welcome. |
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#5
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| Steve I think you pretty well have it.. Lets take an example if you run without a automatic tool changer I have a .375 ball endmill that I will call tool #10 I Touch off the work piece zero and get a 4.000" Tool offset for this cutter ! I now call tool 11 up and call it a .385 diameter ball cutter and change the tool offset to 3.995" It is the same endmill, but the control thinks it is two seperate tools, and because #9 is bigger, it will leave .005 extra stock on the sides, and the .005 difference in length assures the bottom will have stock. when you copy a block, you have two identical blocks. The only difference is. 1. Block two (for finish) has no peck specified, 2. and You can change the setover if you wish. 3. and you enter tool 10 as the tool Most importantly, you make no changes to the "program dimensions" Faja referenced the roughing cycle where the Hurco will use a regular endmill for rough cut . You may have to use the ball endmills center (!) when programming it this way (check the manual). I will let Faja comment as i don't use it very much that way Good Luck Rich |
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#6
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| Yes I understand it a lot more now. I was struggling to grasp how I could rough out a pocket in steps (peck depth) and then finish it at full depth with a finer cut. So simple when you think about it, remove the peck depth and it goes straight to full depth. So the roughing block just needs a stock allowance for the Z and a way of leaving a bit on the sides (x and y). The machine has a 16 tool auto changer so it's fine if I'm using a different cutter to finish with. Just give the roughing cutter a slightlly bigger diameter. If I'm using the same cutter for rough and finish then provided the pocket shape is simple I can take a bit off the x any y dimensions to leave a bit on for finishing I guess. Anyway, a lot clearer now so thanks guys. Now the next bit. When I select the 3D option I have four choices. Draw 2D contour, X Z revolved about X, X Z revolved about Z and X Y translated in Y. I pretty much understand the last three but need to know more about the draw 2D conour. Any further help? |
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#7
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| First a correction, I said tool #9 and meant tool #11 The 2 D contour, is nothing more than a "cross-section" view of the moves. Lets say you wanted to make a Bowl for your dog and will use x-z revolved around Z The bowl will be 8 inches diameter and 3 inches high on the inside Since Z is the spindle axis, and X is the table length, imagine you are looking straight on from the very front of the machine ( Y is not visible) your tool path would be a line from X4,Z3 down to X4,Z2, Then a radius of 2 inches, ending at X2,Z0 The last line is to the origin of X0, Z0. You would normally draw a picture and have 'Y" be your height in a CAD program, but here, it becomes the axis you select.( Z) The above line contour is now cut with the cutter removing the bowl contents And if you now viewed the part from the top of the machine, The cutter would start at 3 oclock and move to directly under the spindle. It would then start at 2 Oclock....and so on as it revolved around Z. You 3 D screen will ask where to start and how far to go (ie 360) If you picked XY revolved on Y, the same contour would generate half a trumpet horn, with a flat on the table. Rich |
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