KMB1 Conversion

[Bob La Londe]

Ick, what a blurry photo. Usually my Droid shoots better pictures than that. Oh, well. I removed the side cabinet and clamped it in place to see what it looks like. I feel almost like I added a whole new room in the corner of the shop with the extra space on that side of the machine.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[Bob La Londe]

FYI, no the tach brushes are not the same. I looked before installing the X motor. I don't see any need to constantly wear them out though, so out they come.

[Bob La Londe]

So... did all you other retrofitters save the console and console arm? I am thinking I like it because it can be right there in front of the table while you are setting up a job. It would almost (I said almost) preclude the need for a pendant. I do need to move it to the other side somehow though, and maybe modify the swing stops.

I was wondering what controls you put in the face of the console if you did save it?

I was thinking all it really needs is a place to hang a pendant, an e-stop button, and a USB Port. My thought was to put two smallish monitors in it. A pair of 10" LCDs side by side. One with the Mach screen from the PC, and one with a video feed off the machine. I run cameras on my smaller machines already, and I can say its a great tool. I can work in the office and keep an eye on them on the network, or even on my cell phone.

My other inverter (for the cooling fan motor) is supposed to arrive today. If it does I think I'll try a manual control test on the main VFD and spindle motor in the next day or two. (I have a pot and switches I can use.)

[Jackal66]

Hello Bob,

That is looking real good. On the arm that holds the console, I made a new one for mine.

I'll get a pic tomorrow. It mounts in the lifting eye hole on top of the ram.

I kept tripping on the factory arm. Plus the factory arm wasn't sealed up and it looked like some mice may have been in there at one time of the machines life.

For the USB connection I ordered a panel-mount-double-port-USB-extension cable < ( what a tongue twister ).

Here is a link to one:
FRONTX - Panel Mount USB, Panel Mount RJ45 Connector - bulkhead connector cable

It is the second one down.

My plan is to get an outdoor in use electrical plug cover. It will keep chips & coolant out, but you can just raise the cover and plug in the USB drive, without having to open the cabinet.

I had also thought about using Lexan for a see through cover, but the PMDX LEDs will pretty much tell me what I need from the console.

If I need to see the LED's on the Geckos, it will be necessary to have the cabinet open anyway.

The Geckos are easy to get. I ordered the Dugongs and after 2 months canceled the order. The new Vipers I needed weren't in full production yet either.


You can get a Gecko in your hands withing 24 hours anytime.
It is about time for me to order a spare though. It would be nice to have a spare Gecko, encoder, etc. on the shelf in case something went out in the middle of a rush job.

Dave Rothermel is a great guy with a lot of good ideas.

We went back and forth during our retrofits. Comparing everything.

It was like a team project.

Keep us posted and any help we can give you is here.

Good luck,

JAckal

[Dave Rothermel]

I like the stacking of the cabinets. Also like getting rid of the swing arm. that would give me a lot more room. When I had dumb questions, Jack was right there to help me. he was great help. Still working on the control conceal. Need to get back at it. Been rearranging my shop. Got to go out and turn up the heat
and then wait for it to warm up. Be glad when summer gets here.
Dave

[Bob La Londe]

Originally Posted by Dave Rothermel I messed up one of the encoders. Replaced it from Digikey for $ 24.00.

Two of my encoders just crumbled at the touch so I figured to just replaced all three. I thought the originals were only 300 line anyway. Which encoder did you use? What is the resolution?

[Jackal66]

My original encoders were 1000 PPR ( pulses per revolution).

Here is a link about them:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/servo_..._re-using.html

Here is a link about the encoders:

Jog speed is very slow

Mine encoders are set @ 500 lines. MACH 3 reads quadrature encoder @ 2000 lines.

Ballscrews in my machine are 5 threads per inch.

2000 lines x 5 threads per inch= 10,000 steps for MACH to read 1 unit ( or 1inch).


Hope this helps,

JAckal

[Dave Rothermel]

This is taken from Jacks post from our retrofit. My original two encoder are 1000 PPR. I messed one up bu hooking the voltage up wrong. The new one that I got is adjustable with dip switched. I set it to 1000 PPR I also bought the wiring harness, with a plug to the encoder and a shielded cable, that I think was 6 foot long. This is the best bang for the buck.
check out the digi-key catalog.
1000 PPR = 4000 x 5 = 20,000 steps.
Dave
Jack posted earlier.

The reason I went with the AMT-103 encoder was becasue of Mariss at Gecko Drives.

Several times, I've read where people were having troubles and he would recommend this encoder and it solved their problems.

Digi-Key - 102-1308-ND (Manufacturer - AMT103-V KIT)

Also, it would be possible to use the old encoders, but there was no real step-by-step how-to on setting them up.

These Amt encoders are $23 each. I can afford to keep a spare or 2 around.

The factory encoders are like $375 each, and if you buy one off of e-bay it may be bad, too.

[Bob La Londe]

The transformer cabinet is off the back now. I have the two big cabinets screwed together. I'm getting ready to start mounting a few things, but much todo has been made about noise in the past.

I want to plan my layout to minimize noise.

I suspect the VFDs (2 in this case) may generate a lot of noise so I figured they would go on the bottom cabinet with the disconnect 230 main disconnect.

What about the 60V and the 115 output transformers? They are both 60 hz, but still. So far the 115 transformer is only going to be used to drive the cooling fans. The 60V will feed into my big bridge rectifier. I don't see any reason they can't both go in the bottom cabinet with twisted pair going to the fans for the one and to the rectifier for the other.

What about the rectifier? Will it generate any real noise to worry about?

I have a couple other small power supplies that will be needed, but their power levels will be so low I highly doubt the will cause any significant noise levels.

What else do I need to worry about?

Obviously the cabinets themselves form a pretty good Faraday cage.

I'll have a Smoothstepper, C23 BOB, 80VDC power supply, 2 VFDs 2 transformers. Probably a 12VDC power supply and a 4VDC power supply. Step direction servo controllers. I figured to use twisted pair for everything to reduce noise except where it obviously doesn't matter like in a conduit from the box to the spindle motor, etc.

Should I shield the Smoothstepper from the servo controllers? I have boxes, Or I can easily place sheet metal shields inside the cabinets that reach to the door.

Or am I just worrying needlessly at this point.

[Bob La Londe]

I think I asked once before about brush life. Any good estimates on brush life of these ElectroCraft motors? Either in hours (questionable) or number of revolutions?

Mach does keep track of inches traveled in the service log if its all working properly I think.

[Bob La Londe]

Well.... I finally got around to picking a servo controller for the servos. I got paid for a small mold job on one of the mini mills yesterday, and today I ordered 3 brand new G320X servo controllers. I went with the G320X because of availability and price. This will help keep the price of 4th axis assemblies reasonable. That and the simple steps you guys mentioned reducing the secondary output on my 230/60V transformer.

Now to look over the "dump" circuit diagram again.

Hopefully I can pick up encoders soon.

Speaking of transformers... after unwinding your transformer what did you wrap it with when you were done ? My dad suggested cloth friction tape. He was an electronics tech in the airforce, and has done electrical and electronics work ever since. Friction tape my be a pain to get through the frame and wrap. Probably have to do it in pieces if I go that way.

Another thought I had was to go with fiberglass woven cloth. I have some left over from another project along with both epoxy and poly resins. Just not sure how hot the transformer gets. Epoxy resin will melt or burn from a basic butane flame. Not sure about poly resin.

Any suggestions?

[ov1mohawk]

A friend of mine painted it after I modified mine with something I think was called Glyptol or something close to that. He said they use it to coat the insides of engine blocks and cover transformers. It has worked great so far.