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#1
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| I just joined this forum and I don't have a whole lot of machining experience so I'm looking for some good'ol practical advice. I am modifying the fuel cross-over line from my VW van because the nylon fittings are breaking every few years. These little pieces of plastic end up costing $64+ for a replacement and I'm done shelling out that kind of cash for plastic that doesn't last. So I am going to a brass fitting but I need to modify it slightly. The plastic fitting has a 0.4" long shoulder which is 0.5" in diameter and I need to recreate that on the barbed brass fitting. See pic. What would be the easiest and most cost effective way to achieve this? Would I use a lathe or a mill? My concern if I use a lathe is how to fixture the part because it wouldn't be balanced. Thanks for your help. |
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#3
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| Put it in a vise and use a hack saw or cut-off wheel. Then debur any sharp edges. One thing you want to check is the I.D. because if it is too small or too large you won't get the proper flow.
__________________ Toby D. "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names" Schwarzwald (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) www.refractotech.com |
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#4
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| I'd just use a file.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#5
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That's not going to be easy - but try to devise a way to clamp it in a four jaw independent chuck so that you can dial indicate it into being centered on the spindle bore before turning it to size. One leg may be able to protrude sideways out between the jaws. If the barb grooves are smaller than .5" you can silver solder the grooves to build it up and then turn it to .5" diameter. CarveOne
__________________ CarveOne Resistance is not futile. It is voltage divided by current (R=V/I). |
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