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| Hardinge Lathes Discuss Hardinge Lathes here. |
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#14
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| TARIQ08 , A little more information would be helpful. O.D. or I.D. thread? How are you threading now? RPM, DOC, lead in, etc. I use the G76 thread cycle almost 100% of the time. Do a lot of threading, but it's been years since I did an acme thread. Are you re-turning & re-threading? |
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#15
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I've not done ACME as big as 4 on my Hardinge, but I have done a bit of 6-8 & 10 tpi's. Your feeds and speeds are very important aa well as the condition and/or style of insert. The best results I got was from using a smaller gauge insert and doing 2 "cycles" with the second pass altered or moved in Z- to widen the profile and minimize the burring. It's virtualy impossible to do the ACME in one "cycle" without burring. |
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#17
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| I am not familiar with all of the threading cycles from the programming manual, I usually read up on a particular function when I need to apply one. I do know there is a threading cycle for "compound" feeding the angle of the thread form, in your case 29.5 degrees, but you'll have to consult the programming manual or wait for a reply from someone that has. I'll do some checking, but I'm not near my manual. |
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#18
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Your best bet would be to thread using a g76. The first G76 block: G76 Ppppppp Qqqqq Rrrrr Ppppppp - the first two digits are the number of finish passes, the second two digits are thread pull out chamfer amount, the third two digits are tool nose angle. Qqqqq - specifies the minimum depth of cut per pass Rrrrr - specifies amount of stock to leave for the finish pass The second G76 block: G76 Xxxxx.xxxx Zzzzz.zzzz Ppppp Qqqqq Rrrrr Fffff Xxxxx.xxxx - specifies the X end point of the thread. Zzzzz.zzzz - specifies the Z end point of the thread. Ppppp - specifies the single depth of the thread. Qqqqq - specifies the cutting depth of the first pass. Rrrrr - specifies the taper angle of the thread. Fffff - specifies the thread lead. You might want to leave .002-.005 on your od after roughing , then thread, follow with finishing tool to final od, then duplicate your g76 line and give a first pass equal to your single depth and take one spring pass to remove any burr rolled in to threads by your finishing tool. Hope this helps, Pete |
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#20
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| We have a 1993 Hardinge T42 (bought new)......Has anyone else had problems with the subspindle belt breaking?? We have had this problem starting in 2000. It was breaking at least 6 times a years (with constant use)...We would replace the belt with the manufactures suggested belt,but it would still break soon after(I can tell you as an operator I got to know the sound of the belt breaking and usually could save it from crashing the subspindle...otherwise the results of a tool hitting an unmoving part was disasterous) FINALLY... We replaced the (last) belt with one from Gates (of highest quality and price...lol) and havent had a belt breakage in over a year now. Its been a great machine other than the belt troubles. Just wondering if anyone else had a similar problem??? |
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#21
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| I can't relate any belt problems on the lathe, but had a vertical mill that frequently roke thr drive belt, It got a LOT more dependabla and life when we started using the Gates top of the line belts. Ya know what they say... "You get what you pay for" |
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