Another TM-1 enclosure

[DSL PWR]

Well this enclosure isn't nearly as fancy as some that have been posted here, it should work.

It took 40' 1x1 alum tube, 40' 1x1 alum angle, 3 sheets of coroplast, 3.5 tubes of silicone, over 100 pop rivets, and some time. I hope some of the coolant will stay in the machine now!

I made the front as wide as the machine, and removable sides to keep the abillity to run oversized parts, and have forklift access. The hardest part was trying to keep things sort of straight while utilising the chip extensions, as they flop all over the place.

I have 2 big "cheats" in this design, 1. On the left side where the servo sticks out, I only made a 3 sided box and overlapped the 2 panels. 2. The enclosure is rectangular and the factory chip pan has several funky angles, to fill in the gap I simply left 2 flaps on my door to cover them.

I also siliconed a piece of coroplast to the side of the panel to keep some of the spray off. Some day I may lengthen the wires and move the control out another 12".

[Vern Smith]

Nice work, you will find the floor much easier to keep clean now. I assume coroplast is a building material, can I find it at Home Depot?

Vern

[Geof]

Originally Posted by Vern Smith Nice work, you will find the floor much easier to keep clean now. I assume coroplast is a building material, can I find it at Home Depot? Vern

At Home Depot it may be called Tenplast.

Works really well for this kind of thing; cut, score, bend and pop rivet. The US Postal Services uses boxes made of Coroplast it is surprisingly durable.

[Vern Smith]

If it's plastic with a sort of honey combed interior I think I know what you mean. The sign industry uses it a lot of temporary signs.

Vern

[Geof]

Originally Posted by Vern Smith If it's plastic with a sort of honey combed interior I think I know what you mean. The sign industry uses it a lot of temporary signs. Vern

That's the stuff; incredibly useful.

[pimpbike]

Not to burst your bubble but coroplast burns quite easily. I'd have to wonder if a hot chip doesn't set that stuff on fire. I use a ton of that material in my sign business. Cheap and easy to work with but I'm not so sure it's best suited for a chip guard. Looks good though!

[Geof]

I have had hot chips, that is almost red hot chips from steel, melt into the coroplast but never had anything catch. Actually the biggest hazard I found with hot chips is that they embed firmly and when you then use your hand to sweep the chips off the surface you get a nice slice across your fingers.

[DSL PWR]

I used aluminum and coroplast for the good strength to weight ratio. The whole thing only weighs about 50 pounds. I made the frame with 2 out riggers so I could add some screw legs, but they don't seem to be needed, and I'll probably cut them off. I'll probably wait another day or 2 to make sure the silicone has fully cured before I hit everything with coolant. The 1st thing I want to make is a coolant ring with multiple nozzels.

[pimpbike]

If anyone wants to buy coroplast don't buy it from Home depot buy it from a sign or plastic supplier. It's half the price

[riverracer]

our machine also leaks badly from the "Y" axis switch box!
coolant drips down onto it and runs out thru the gap
has anyone made a covering for this area?
if so how have you covered it?
any photo's that show it?

[DSL PWR]

Originally Posted by riverracer our machine also leaks badly from the "Y" axis switch box! coolant drips down onto it and runs out thru the gap has anyone made a covering for this area? if so how have you covered it? any photo's that show it?

Mine was the same way. On the install the Haas tech cut up a pop can and siliconed it on. It was wide enough to fill in the gaps on the side of the switch, then he made 2 vertical cuts and formed the middle to go over the top of the switch cover. This stopped most of the leaks.