coolant pump control - aftermarket

[MrMudd]

Bought a ToolRoom Mill off the showroom floor. Instead of waiting for the Coolant tank system, I bought a Sub Pump from Home Depot for 60 Bucks, and some Line for it. Works great!. The question i Have is.

Can the wireing of this 3 prong plug be wired into the HAAS for the programmable coolant?

[gar]

060227-1359 EST USA

I am not where I can currently look at a diagram. Also I do not have a Toolroom anything.

Almost certainly your Home Depot pump is single phase. Probably also nominal 120 V AC 60 Hz. You need to know the HP rating or current load of this pump when pumping.

If HAAS uses 120 V single phase for the coolant pump, then if you have the same motor rating or lower power you should be able run from the same source as HAAS uses.

Is the Toolroom Mill a single phase or three phase unit?

Look in your manual to see how HAAS connects the coolant pump. Since the TL-1 can be single or 3 phase I suspect the coolant pump is single phase. This would reduce the number of spare parts. This means you need to determine the voltage and power rating of the HAAS pump motor.

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[MrMudd]

115V, 60Hz 15 Amp

Our particular model is hooked up 3 phase, however i see that can be switched, and the pump controll has plugs on the various Boards with a Breaker...

I'm Curious if anyone has done this...

[Geof]

The coolant pump supply on the TL-1 is 230volt so the TM-1 will be the same. If you have a breaker on your board labelled Coolant 230V 3 amp then you should be able to trace the wires from this and install your own socket. But even if it was the same voltage you would not be able to run a pump drawing 15 amp.

You might be able to use the 230volt Haas supply to operate an external relay with a 230volt coil and use this to switch your 120V 15A supply for the pump.

[gar]

060228-2124 EST USA

MrMudd:

Geof gave you good information.

Is your plant large enough to have your own electrician?

If so have him look at the problem. If the 15 A rating is full load steady-state you are in the range of a 2 HP motor and inrush current on startup would be much greater.

This requires a good size motor starter ( not a P&B KUP11 ). Your relay coil needs to be 240 V AC, or some means to lower the voltage to the relay coil.

Tell us what you are doing. Maybe you are just using a manual switch.

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[greenmachinist]

I have both a TL-1 Toolroom Lathe and a TM-1 Toolroom Mill.

I bought the Mill with the coolant option, and am trying to refit my Lathe with a homebrew version of it.

1) You need a 230V, 1 Phase coolant pump to be able to control it with the Haas controller itself.

2) Youl'll need to make a wiring harness that goes on the inside with the following parts:

18 or 16 AWG wire.

NEMA Type L6-15P Receptacle for Machine (twist lock type)

Ring/Spade Terminal for the Ground Connection

Molex Part #0039014041 Minifit Jr Receptacle to connect to the coolannt connector on the I/O board inside the control cabinet

Molex Part #0039000080 for 16 AWG wire or Molex Part #0039000060 for 18 - 24 AWG wire (these are the metal pins/terminals that fit inside the Minifit Jr molded header)

3) Put together a 230V single phase coolant pump that will connect to the twistlock receptacle that you installed in #2) above.

a 230V single phase motor/pump (I used one from Graymills)
a tank/sump (came with my Graymills unit)
18/3 or 16/3 SO cord to run from the motor to the plug
NEMA Type L6-15P plug for your motor (twist lock type)

You're basically done. If you need more help, email back or post another question. Hope this helped. I'm not an electrician, but this is something I'm finishing up on my lathe.

[gar]

060308-1232 EST USA

greenmachinist

You did not provide specific information on your pump. In particular what is its power rating, steady-state loaded current (pumping maximum head), and maximum startup current.

See Geof's response above.

Breakers, generally, and fuses always have an I squared T threshold curve. This determines your maximum inrush current without tripping. Motor load current determines your wire size.

If your wire is exposed to coolant or oil you many need special insulation. Some plastics are made with a plasticizer for softness. Various materials will leach the plasticizer out and the basic plastic becomes very brittle. Teflon does not use a plasticizer and is excellent in oil. We have had Teflon cable in oil for 20 years with no problem.

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[greenmachinist]

The link below is the exact unit I bought. There are links in the upper left hand corner for various spec information.
http://www.graymills.com/_Industrial...CATEGORYID=106

This link is for the pump itself
http://www.graymills.com/_Industrial...&CATEGORYID=93

I don't think this pump would pull that much inrush current. Max current on the motor that comes as part of the Haas coolant kit is 0.32 A

I called Graymills and they said that their max current draw is 1.66 A and a load rated ampereage of 26.2A

I have not hooked this up yet, so I can't say for sure that it works yet.

I hope this helps.

[gar]

060308-1915 EST USA

greenmachinist:

One HP = 746 Watts. Your motor is rated 1/8 HP or 93 Watts. Assume an efficiency of 75% and input power is 125 Watts. Asume a power factor of 0.7 and the input VA is 177. At 240 V this is 177/240 = 0.74 Amperes. Assume this is your maximum steady state current. Well below the 3 Amps mentioned by Geof.

Experiment with the motor on your HAAS and see if it trips the breaker on startup. You have to cycle many times to create a worst case startup current. My guess is that you will not have any problem.

Number 18 wire would be OK, but I would use #16 for mechanical reasons.

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