Hass TM1P and thread forming

[jeremy13]

I have been told that our TM1 might not have enough ass to push a thread forming tap ½ X13 tpi in aluminum. Is this true? Do the thread forming taps take that much HP?

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Jeremy13,

I have a TM-1P but the largest hole that I have done with a form tap was 1/4 X 20 through .5 thick 6061 T6 Aluminum. My CAD/CAM software has an option for peck tapping (2 level or 3 level) that one of the fellows developed for it.

Do you have Rigid Tapping enabled on your machine and do you have the repeat rigid tap setting turned on? If you are going deep with the 1/2 X 13 you will probably want to (peck) to different depths.

Here is a link about Repeat Rigid Tap that may??? be of some help.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/haas_m..._1_4-20_a.html

There is another setting that sets the retract speed. I think you can increase it up to 3 times faster than the downfeed. i.e. 1 normal, 2 is twice as fast, 3 is three times as fast.

I think you will find that most will recommend a rich coolant mixture.

Maybe one of the experts will be able to offer you more specific advise. I am sure they will want to know the depth of the tapped holes.

John

[KenFoulks]

Please provide more information:

What is the thread type?
What size are you drilling?
What is the tap manufacturer?
What type of AL are you using?

Form taps require a lot of hp, but I think it is possible on that machine.

[Pondo]

In steel you may have a problem, but not in aluminum.
Just make sure you use coolant and drill the exact recommended tap drill for forming taps.
Here's the chart I use:
Form Tap Drill Chart
If you drill too little it will be a lot harder to drive the tap and it may bind up.
If you drill too big the threads don't form correctly and you end up with an unusable hole. It looks like a double lead thread. The crests don't form all the way and bolts can tend to follow the "false" threads.

[jeremy13]

Originally Posted by KenFoulks Please provide more information: What is the thread type? What size are you drilling? What is the tap manufacturer? What type of AL are you using? Form taps require a lot of hp, but I think it is possible on that machine.

1/2 X 13 NC
planed on the 15/32 drill
Greenfield MSC Item Detail
Good question This is a mystery plate that came from the scrap yard. 1 1/2" X 11 1/2" X 22" Paid $12.00 for it. Machines nice and smooth. The deberring tool makes small chips when I run the edges.
My intension is to make a usable jig plate. Threaded hole pattern across the face of the plate. I may just go with the threaded inserts. I will have to research that some more.
John: I do have ridged taping enabled. And my Bob Cam has the peck option.

[Ken_Shea]

Perhaps a better alternative to the coolant when tapping is to use some appropriate tapping lube, in which case you would not use the coolant but manually apply the tapping lube at each threading. I tend to always do this, but production speed is not an issue.

[jeremy13]

This is the plate after we got threw the Oxidation. The coolant is maybe a little to rich. It was a case of "theirs just a little left just dump it all in".

[Ken_Shea]

I like it rich, it does tend to sticky up a bit when drying but offers better lubrication and rust protection to the table and vice.

BTW, nice chunk of aluminum looks like it should work out well.

.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Jeremy,

You need to make sure you have repeat rigid tapping turned on.

Here is a link to the HAAS Answer ManHaas Automation, Inc. - CNC Machining Magazine -

John

[KenFoulks]

You should not have any problem with forming this thread below 1000 RPM. 15/32 is the correct drill size. 30 ft/lbs of torque is required to do this in steel and below 1000 RPM, a TM has 35 ft/lbs of torque.

Here is an applications # for Greenfield in Ohio:
John Charland
217.494.3809
John.Charland@gfii.com

[Vern Smith]

If the mystery plate is 6061 it will not be a problem, I do it all the time with 10% coolant that is 50% synthetic and 50% oil. If it's 7075 you will be pushing it. If you are going deeper than .5 I would recommend taking 2 or 3 passes at it. As previously pointed out, be sure you have rigid tapping repeat turned on. Form taps push up a lead in burr at the top of the hole. I usually go back with a chamfer tool and remove it because it can make it hard to start the bolt. This is why the aircraft industry will not accept form tapped holes.

Vern