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#3
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| I do the factory recommended PM. Pull way covers, clean and lube them. Change stone filter in oiler, check flow meters and checkvalves for proper flow. Ensure axis are getting lubrication. Coolant change, wipe down machine, look for leaks in housing. lubricate tool changer cogs with grease. check spindle motor fan assembly is functioning. check oil water separator in the back is working properly (these ALWAYS clog) inspect way cover seals for gaps and damage. check spindle for noise, vibration, and binding. Clean and calibrate probes if applicable. blow out electrical cabinet Clean and lubricate spindle taper(every day) replace cabinet air filter (newer machines dont have them any more) |
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#5
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| The right way to do it is as follows. Remove the fittings that hold the separator to the casting, and then remove the line that returns coolant back to the coolant tank. Pull the separator free from the main pipe to the machine casting. (this is a friction fitting, just loosen it, dont unscrew it all the way. Take the unit to a bench vise and put the cast side down with the sheet metal side with the drain tube in it facing up, youll thank me for this later as the channels are retained in the cast side, which will hold all of your coolant in and not have it run onto the floor. Remove all of the bolts that hold the two sides together. Take to a parts washer and scrub the slime out of the cast side and make sure all of the coolant channels are clear. Unclog both the coolant return and the oil drain holes. Put a new gasket on it ($3 from Haas) and reassemble. The trick here is to remount it so the bubble level shows level, this is how the thing works in the first place, if its not level, it wont work. I order 10 of these gaskets at a time due to the frequency these things clog up. Make sure you put a bucket under the pipe into the casting when you remove the unit because if the separator has been clogged a long time, the casting will be full of oil and coolant. |
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#7
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| The oiler in the back has a pressure gauge on it, what happens is the oiler solenoid opens the air line to the oiler every 23 minutes. The residual air pressure in the system is what pushes the oil through the flow valves. The system should go from shop psi (90 or so) and you should be able to see the gauge drop slowly to zero psi over the course of 12 minutes. If the pressure doesnt go down to zero, you have blockages somewhere in the system. Then they need to be taken out (flow meters and check valves) and cleaned or replaced. If you want to make sure your oiling system stays clean, mobil has somehing called Mobil system cleaner. If your using Vactra #2, you can mix this at no more than 10% by volume and allow to run through the machine for 3 working days. After you run the system cleaner, drain and refill with fresh mobile Vactra #2. This will break apart any solids that form under normal use, especially if you have ever switched to a different band of oil, even if its supposed to be a direct replacement for vactra 2, never ever switch. It causes crystallization that will clog the flow meters. Keep your oiling apparatus clean and ONLY use Vactra #2. |
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