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#1
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| TL-2 threading code How do I edit my code so the threading tool takes a couple passes at final depth? In effect, I'd like to have a couple spring passes. Also I'm pretty sure there is a way to have the same tool just skim the major dia. to reduce burrs at the crest of the thread, but I can't find the info in the manual. Sample of OD threading code: N129 (OD THREAD) N130 T505 N131 G54 N132 G97 S500 M03 N133 G00 X0.644 N134 Z0.2476 N135 G04 P1. N136 M09 N137 M24 N138 G76 X0.483 Z-0.54 K0.0505 I0. D0.005 F0.0492 N139 G00 X0.644 Z0.2476 N140 M09 N142 (RAPID) N143 T505 N144 G54 N145 G00 X3. Z10. N146 M00 Thanks, Greg B. Also thanks to all the folks who have answered my other questions on the forum. It's been a big help. |
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#2
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| G76 is one way to make threads, but have you tried a G92??
__________________ Toby D. "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names" Schwarzwald (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) www.refractotech.com |
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#3
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| I've been looking over the G92 option. Seems like alot of extra code to write. But I can see how it gives you finer control over the threading passes. The code in my previous post was generated using the Haas IPS threading feature. I have literally just started learning this machine, and I've never run a CNC lathe before. Just getting this far has been a bit frustrating but like I said, folks here have been really helpful. Greg B. |
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#4
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| Take the time to learn G92, it gives you much more control and allows you to tweak the size just by changing the X coordinate in your final passes. And it is really not that much extra code; write the G92 line and the following line with just the X coordinate, select and copy the X line six to ten times and then just step down changing the X values.
__________________ An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out. |
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#5
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| So if I were to try with a G92 the code should look like this? M14 X 1.25 thread, by the way. N129 (OD THREAD) N130 T505 N131 G54 N132 G97 S500 M03 N133 G00 X0.644 N134 Z0.2476 N135 G04 P1. N136 M09 N137 M24 G00 X.644 Z0.2476 G92 X0.540 Z-0.54 F0.0492 X0.535 X0.525 X0.515 X0.508 X0.501 X0.495 X0.490 X0.487 X0.485 X0.484 X0.483 X0.483 (two passes at same dim.) X0.545 (pass to skim thread crests, or is this not allowed?) N140 M09 N142 (RAPID) N143 T505 N144 G54 N145 G00 X3. Z10. N146 M00 Thanks, Greg B. |
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#6
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| Your 0.545 pass will not do anything because the tool is aligned with the root of the thread not the crest. If you want to skim the crest you need to move you Z starting point by half a pitch. But I don't quite understand what you are trying to get by skimming with a threading tool, surely you need something with a flat end such as a narrow grooving tool? Of course the best approach is to use a full profile thread insert.
__________________ An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out. |
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#7
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| Sometimes I think if brains were dynamite I couldn't blow my own nose. I'm using a single point insert, because that's all we have at the moment. And it does throw up a burr on the crests. My thought of using the threading tool was to avoid another tool change. We didn't get the turret option with our TL, but I kind of wish we had. I suppose I could use the parting tool to skim the crests just before I cut off the part. Otherwise I'm ending up using some Scotchbrite after the fact. Thanks, Greg B. |
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#8
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| With a bit of experimenting you should be able to figure out the Z start position and the X coordinate to have the threading tool take a little chamfer cut along each side of the crest. Alternatively just use the threading tool as a turning tool to take a finish pass along the thread at the OD and knock off the burrs. With this approach you can then go back and do a final clean up pass on the thread after taking off the burrs.
__________________ An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out. |
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#9
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| Tried the G92. Like it better than G76. More effective, and less cycle time. At least over the way the IPS figured the threading passes. Had a few weird issues when I saved the IPS program back to the shop PC and tried to do some editing offline. Control wouldn't accept the program when I tried to send it back. I pretty sure I had something screwy in the file name, but I've yet to figure out what it is.Didn't like it coming from a USB drive either. Ended up just redoing it with the IPS and making changes at the control, like taking out all the extra M00s ,adding M08s, & M09s where I needed them. And putting in the G92 stuff. Still need to edit out a bunch of unnecessary axii moves to make it run a little faster. BUT I did make some parts, finally. Thanks so much for your help. Greg B. |
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#10
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| Check the % at the head and tail of the file when you load back to the machine. Also check for long comments between parentheses, i.e. (COMMENT). I have found sometimes that the machine does not like a (COMMENT) that is long enough to line wrap. It loses the closing ) and alarms.
__________________ An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out. |
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#11
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| why dont u just turn it like a norml turniing after u have done the thread ? G0 X0,6 Z0,2 X0,549 (= 13,95mm TIP OF M14 ) G1 Z-0,54 F0,008 G0 X1 Z1 |
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#12
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| Hvordan har du deg, (think I spelled it right) That's pretty much what I ended up doing. Using my parting tool to just skim the threads at the major dia. tusen takk Greg B |
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