Coolant System Tweaks and Tricks

[l u k e]

How is the GE GXWH04F, anyone?

[Delw]

Heres one I finally got around to putting together.

I always used the screen in the coolant tray but its not good enough, in one month I clean 20 gals 4 5 gallon buckets of alum fines out of the tank, every month too.
I use evap cooler pads in the tray, 7 bucks and you can cut them to get 2. they wash out good too.


so I installed the filters this AM . fittings were 197 bucks form home depot.
I dont know how long it will take for the filters to dirty up,( so I installed 2 of them with check valves) the tank was clean when I installed it and fresh coolant

I have NO freaking clue if this will work or even help, or even be worth it, so if anyone has any feed back let me know, the only thing I am worried about is the filters clogging up, I was going to run for a few days then check them out.

filters canisters were from lowes
they are whirlpool "WHKF-DWH"
the filters themselves are the coarser ones.
if I remember correctly the canisters and filters cost 30-40 bucks each

[Matt@RFR]

Del, if you put a pressure gauge upstream and downstream of your filters you'll be able to tell at a glance if one / both are plugging up. I only have one filter on mine, but if the in-pressure is 25psi and the out-pressure is about 18-20, I change filters. Couldn't be easier.

Regarding the filter for the sump, do you do any 3D machining or any other process that produces very small chips? Right now I'm using some .007" opening stainless mesh where you have the evap filter and I still get a lot of small chips in the sump. For me, that's where the real problem is. For example, right now I'm running .040" ball noses in brass, and as you can imagine, probably 99% of those chips end up in the bottom of the sump.

[Delw]

Matt
Surfacing in alum and steel alloys and some regular cutting brass work.
if I run and rougher then a finisher in regular jobs that stuff still gets through. ( I always rough with one tool and finish with another.

I like that pressure guage idea, thanks for the tip. how many PSI does those high pressure pumps put out in the v2ss's? I thought it was more than 25lbs.( no through coolant)

the reason I like the evap pads is that its thick and stuff gets trapped pretty quick. when I run brass I double them up very few gets through. I used to double them up alot then got lazy LOL thats why I am cleaning the tank every month.

I might end up trying panty hose over the evap pads, I used to use them alot when restoring cars in my younger days and they worked really well.

The green pads at home depot have wider gaps than the blue/purple pads at Lowes,

My neighbor is a commercial pool installer he has some pretty cool filtration systems laying in his yard with the trucks, he said if I can't get a handle on it we will modify one of those scrap filters he has.

Again thanks alot for that pressure guage tip great idea.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi,

Just an update on my #20 post to this thread.

My friend e-mailed me a few weeks ago and informed me that Opaque type filter housings are holding up with no issues on cracking like the clear plastic ones did. I think he told me he purchased the Opaque type filter housings at Home Depot. When I say Opaque type I mean the screw on canister that actually covers the filter element not the top of the filter housing.

John

[Matt@RFR]

how many PSI does those high pressure pumps put out in the v2ss's? I thought it was more than 25lbs.( no through coolant)

With all four loclines and the Pcool flowing, and a clean filter I get right at 25-26psi on both sides of the filter. If I close the loclines and only have the Pcool flowing, it pegs my 30psi guage, so I'm not sure what it is really putting out. Whatever it is is quite impressive coming out of one outlet!

For anyone who is wondering, the 300psi through spindle pump nets me about 240psi when using an insert drill, and down around 180psi when using it with an ER-32 collet holder. I'm sure it would be around 300psi if you dead-headed it, but you risk flooding the spindle bearings so I won't try that. Seems Haas rates their coolant pumps just like their spindle horsepower.

For the sump filter, I wonder if building a rectangular box and putting several layers of filter media in the box would do the trick? I've often wondered if some sort of dam arrangment around the drain inside the machine would do anything, but I've yet to wrap my brain around anything. I have my doubts, especially because there are still the holes in the bottom of the auger trough that will let chips out anyway.

I would really, really like to find a fix for this. I machine cast iron and magnesium, and those two things will mess up coolant like nobodies business.

[Geof]

....I would really, really like to find a fix for this......

Centrifugal cleaning?

Probably not cheap but there is a price range:

Alfie, portable coolant cleaner

http://www.sanborntechnologies.com/p...20brochure.pdf


Keller Products has big bag filters. They work very well and have a very large capacity but are several times more expensive than cartridge filters.

In-line filters prevent plugging of coolant delivery systems

[Matt@RFR]

Actually Geof, I have a Zebra coalescer now that I believe you recommended. I know it is a less proactive product than the ones you posted above, but I really don't do much machining yet and shouldn't need a fancy setup.

My worst problem is magnesium. I don't know if I'm doing something completely wrong, but if that stuff sits in my sump for more than 1-2 days, I can count on a complete coolant recharge...which sucks. Now, I haven't had a mag job since I got the coalescer, so I hope it helps out since those chips float like aluminum does. Where the coalescer won't help (as far as sump cleanliness goes) is cast iron. It doesn't ruin the coolant, but man does it ever make a nasty sludge in the sump! It is so bad that it turns my white coolant blue because there is so much fines in the coolant. Eventually it all settles out, but until then it really does a number on my post-pump filters.

Those are the reasons I'm looking for a way to keep chips out of the sump as completely as possible. The coalescer takes care of the tramp oil, and the filters take care of small chips going to the coolant nozzles.

[underthetire]

I have no input on filtration, since we use industrial filtration ( parker type, and barnes type) and this is not cost friendly for home shops. ( about 500 each for the cannisters, 15K for the barnes), i will caution about the sprinkler valve. They are 24 volts AC, so don't use the machine power 24 volts DC, you can cause big problems. Just a FYI.

[Ydna]

The pressure in a hydraulic system will depend on how much resistance there is. The pump itself doesn't determine pressure, instead it only creates flow....the pressure is created when a restriction is introduced to the system. Although the standard coolant pumps are non-positive displacement, so you can totally block them off without much risk.

So the aperture size of the TSC tooling will determine the liquid's pressure. If you were using one of those multi-insert rougher mills that has like 20 coolant ports spewing out every side, the pressure might end up being a bit lower...depending on the other aperture sizes involved. hmmm

Do the TSC packages have a relief valve anywhere? I'd love to see what type of hardware they use (pump etc).

Makes me wonder if a flow-meter would be better to use for determing if these added filters being blocked...

[Matt@RFR]

Do the TSC packages have a relief valve anywhere? I'd love to see what type of hardware they use (pump etc).

I did have the TSC pump apart when my coolant went bad, but I was in a hurry and didn't really investigate any of the system. If you know what a small block chevy oil pump looks like, that's exactly what this pump is. I'm sure it's held to tighter tolerances / clearances though.

There looks to be some kind of bypass just behind the TSC pump, but other than that, the only visible parts are the motor and filter. I have no idea what they've got going on after that.

[KenFoulks]

For the fines, this magnet and conveyor with paper combo might do the trick.

This is the current filter on our grinders. The coolant flows on to the magnet where the magnetic material is removed. Then is flows down to the filter paper which is slowly moved along a conveyor.

[l u k e]

5 minutes of fame.

I installed this filter system and was running it just as a test. The coolant is brand new, no chips, clean tank, basically a new machine. I was checking for leaks and such before I get the machine up and cutting. The filter seemed to last about 5 minutes before the pressure dropped WAY off, way to low to run the machine on. I removed the filter washed it out (nothing came out of it), reinstalled and it was a no go. Removed the filter fired it up, ran it for probably 20 minutes with no issues.

So the big question is: is there a certain brand or style filter you guys are using??

[underthetire]

That looks like a carbon treated drinking water filter. You need ~ 20 micron std filter.

[l u k e]

Thanks, I'll se if I can find one..

[Geof]

......So the big question is: is there a certain brand or style filter you guys are using??

Have a look at post #5 in this thread.

[l u k e]

Have a look at post #5 in this thread.

Geof, I pulled my receipt and went to Home Depot, it turns out I purchased the exact unit you suggested. I also purchased a sediment filter it's a FXWTC, do you by chance know the part number for the filter you use?

[Delw]

5 minutes of fame.

I installed this filter system and was running it just as a test. The coolant is brand new, no chips, clean tank, basically a new machine. I was checking for leaks and such before I get the machine up and cutting. The filter seemed to last about 5 minutes before the pressure dropped WAY off, way to low to run the machine on. I removed the filter washed it out (nothing came out of it), reinstalled and it was a no go. Removed the filter fired it up, ran it for probably 20 minutes with no issues.

So the big question is: is there a certain brand or style filter you guys are using??

i just changed my 2 filters this am one was completely clogged the other was ok. for the 1st time.
you definately have something else wrong as I wont believe its the filter.
one thing to check is take out the filter and try it that way, and see what happens.(fake edit) sorry didnt see you posted this
even with a super fine filter you wont drop in pressure that much.
heres a link to the ones I have.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/888543-post22.html

[l u k e]

I'm fairly certain it is the filter because I removed it and it works fine without it, reinstall and the pressure drops way to low, plus there is no filth in the system to plug it up. I know it doesn’t make sense but that’s how it went down. Until I know for certain what filter everyone is using I’m not wasting anymore time on this one.

Anyone using a G.E. Model GXWH04F know the part number for the filter you use?

[Geof]

I just looked at the spare filter cartridhes I have and they don't have any number on them. I guess it was on the package and that is long gone.

The type that I use look like wrapped string, not the pleated paper or plastic film.