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Thread: Haas Tl-1 Toolroom Lathe

  1. #25
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    Default running the tl-1

    i have been running the tl-1 at work for about 3 months and before that it wasn't used for about 4+ months. the reason i'm using it is that i know g&m and have run haas machines in college. all the other guys are used to running the okuma's with the igf. this machine is nicer than the okuma that i was running before. the tailstock on the other machine was hit a few times without getting fixed. some parts we had to put about .007/in. taper in to get it to run straight. most of the time it wasn't that bad.
    the tl-1 that we have has the 4 position auto turret, the sliding doors, and a manual tailstock. the 4 position turret is annoying sometimes because you have to shim some of your tools to get them on center. i personally prefer the screw adjustable wedge lock tool holders because it is easier to set all tools to center. the most problem setting a tool was a .5 min bore boring bar. putting the bar in the regular tool position made it about .500 low. to fix this we had to find a bushing that fit the bar and also fit the 1.000 id tool holder that we have for it.
    the tl1 that we have is about 18 months old. the sliding doors are nice for when you have to use coolant but it would be nicer if the windows didn't leak. the safety door is a little anoying because if you need to have it open to sand or scotchbrite something you are limited to 100 rpms and reaching around it is not fun.
    the tailstock is pretty good but it would be nice if it was aligned with the axis of the spindle and not wiggle on the ways so every time you move it you have to realign it so parts run good or holes drill straight.
    bottom line: i love this machine but it would be nice to tune it up so it would run better and be a little more operator friendly. i would buy one anyday if i needed a machine.



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    Default TL-1 linear bearing grease intervals

    note to the previous post; Your tailstock shouldn't have any "wiggle" in it even before you clamp it down. You may need to adjust the setscrews on the back of the stock at the rear rail. Mine is rock solid and accurate.

    How often are you folks greasing your linear bearings? I don't use mine in production, couple hours a day.
    I know the manual says to pump grease till it comes out of the trucks, but how often do you suppose? My thought was; pumping grease till it comes out of the bearing can't be too good for the seals.

    Last edited by DEAN; 10-09-2007 at 08:02 PM.


  3. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEAN View Post
    ....How often are you folks greasing your linear bearings? I don't use mine in production, couple hours a day...
    When I remember .

    Actually I think we do it weekly; I hads given standing instructions for (I think) three strokes of the grease gun once a week. There is grease oozing out of the trucks, not much but a bit so that keeps me satisfied.

    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.


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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by DEAN View Post
    You may need to adjust the setscrews on the back of the stock at the rear rail.
    thanks dean. will try that this coming monday. i figured there had to be something to do to fix it. will probably have to take off some of the panels to get my hands in there to adjust them.



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    Default

    Anyone know how to properly remove the deadman switch on a haas tl-1?



  6. #30
    Registered Wiseco's Avatar
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    Why remove it? If it's just that you want to overide it or bypass it, go on the second page of the setup screen, put ON at door hold override. If you answer yes to the question that the control ask you, you are aware of the danger. You must do that at every power cycling.



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    I too am looking for my first CNC lathe, I do small lot runs, anywhere from 1-50 pieces. And my parts change daily, I make a bunch of different parts, so fast programming and ease of use (tool changing, etc.) are essential to me. I DO NOT do production runs. I am coming from using a manual engine lathe and wanted to get into my first CNC, I am still a very new machinist. I was looking at the TL-1 and also the Trak Lathes from Southwestern Industries.. either the 1630sx or the 1540sx. A machinist friend of mine that does the same type of work has the Trak 1540 and loves it, he can program it in conversational very very fast which is so important because everyday there are different style parts to make.

    I need a machine that can turn up to 6" in diameter, most of my parts are 3.5" or less in diameter. The material is anything from 316L to plastic. I will most likely cut my bar stock into slugs to fit into the chuck because the spindle bore is only about 2.3".

    How do you all feel the Hass TL-1 compares to the Trak lathes in terms of performance, durability, programming ease, flexibility in making a variety of different parts, etc.?

    BTW.. when did the TL-1 come out?

    Thanks!



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    Thanks Wiseco. Sometimes you over look the easiest stuff. I've had my tl-1 for 2 months now and absolutly love it. It has made life alot easier.



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    Quote Originally Posted by squale View Post
    I too am looking for my first CNC lathe, I do small lot runs, anywhere from 1-50 pieces. And my parts change daily, I make a bunch of different parts, so fast programming and ease of use (tool changing, etc.) are essential to me. I DO NOT do production runs. I am coming from using a manual engine lathe and wanted to get into my first CNC, I am still a very new machinist. I was looking at the TL-1 and also the Trak Lathes from Southwestern Industries.. either the 1630sx or the 1540sx. A machinist friend of mine that does the same type of work has the Trak 1540 and loves it, he can program it in conversational very very fast which is so important because everyday there are different style parts to make.

    I need a machine that can turn up to 6" in diameter, most of my parts are 3.5" or less in diameter. The material is anything from 316L to plastic. I will most likely cut my bar stock into slugs to fit into the chuck because the spindle bore is only about 2.3".




    How do you all feel the Hass TL-1 compares to the Trak lathes in terms of performance, durability, programming ease, flexibility in making a variety of different parts, etc.?

    BTW.. when did the TL-1 come out?

    Thanks!

    Any opinions to this......I'm in the same situation now.


    Mac



  10. #34
    Registered Donkey Hotey's Avatar
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    I don't have any experience with any other CNC lathes. I've owned my TL-1 for almost a year now. I've used it but it's mostly for prototyping. It hasn't got many hours. Here are my thoughts:

    If you decide to buy a Hass TL series, move up to the TL-2 if you can. It's got 50% more spindle torque, a longer bed and more swing. They're supposed to both be 16" swing but the TL-1 is barely a 16". The center height on the TL-2 is about an inch more.

    The tailstock sucks. I understand that the first generation tail stock had repeatability and clamping problems. Whoever designed it, obviously never had to use it. I have the second generation. The guy who designed this thing obviously never used it either. The lock handle is on the front of the machine. It takes 3/4 of a turn to lock it down. The handle is long and it hits the carriage. Every time you want to lock or unlock the tailstock, you have to move the carriage to the left so you can clear it. The tailstock sticks. I don't know how the brake works but it never really releases (unless you're drilling, then it doesn't hold very well). My old manual lathe had a solid tailstock that would just glide down the ways. This thing takes serious work to slide it in and out of position. The quill handle on the back (obvious location) is difficult to use. The control pendant is in your face when you reach to dial the tailstock. It also has poor feel for drilling. It wasn't straight or coaxial when the machine was delivered and I don't think it matters: it seems to change every time you clamp it down. It's really one of the worst points of the whole machine. If you do a lot of precise work with the tailstock, you will hate it in the first hour. Luckily, most of my work has been chucker stuff, so it hasn't been a problem.

    The other problem is really not the machine's fault and that's repeatability. There have been threads here and on Practical Machininst addressing it. My best guess is that it's related to the repeatability of most tool posts. I'm using a Dorian CXA series tool post. If my parts require tool changes, I'll get three perfect parts, then suddenly, they're over or under by a couple of thousandths. The answer seems to be a manual turret toolpost or an automatic one. Basically it needs to be something that doesn't get debris in it during change-out and doesn't deflect when clamped. Using gang tooling obviously eliminates this problem but your parts have to be suited to it.

    I had a really nice, really straight 16x40 manual lathe that I sold to buy the TL-1. If the TL-1 were a manual lathe, you'd laugh at it. The 'feel' is just terrible compared to a well oiled, well made, manual lathe. The fact remains though that if I had kept the manual machine, I'd never use it again anyway. I'll tolerate all of the TL-1's shortcomings to not have to make parts manually. The first time I cut a blind, inside thread, up to a shoulder, at 400 RPM, I knew I couldn't go back to manual work ever again.

    And I have to emphasize: we get what we pay for. My old manual lathe was a $12K machine. For that kind of coin, it had better be a nice machine. If the TL-1 had things like an equally smooth tailstock, it probably would have cost another $5-7K. The TL-1 and 2 are what they are: entry level CNC machines or for people who need an open machine that can be hand-cranked once in awhile.

    Greg


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    Greg thanks for the reply it's just the kind of info I wanted to hear. I'm looking at the Haas and the Trak 1440EX which is around $18500 with coolant pump and Tailstock. The Hass seems like it's a much beefier machine but for what I'm doing the 12x36 manual lathe I have now is barely getting worked.

    For $2000 you would think the tailstock would be better! The cheap Grizzly G4003g I have know has really no issues with the tailstock and the Haas tailstock is 2/3rds the price of the whole Grizzly lathe!

    I which I could find more info in the Track lathes


    Mac



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    go with a TRAK lathe. the new 1630 is nice for a lighter machine. The 1840 is REALLY nice!



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