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If you get digital photos then I'll post them for you if you don't want to worry about that part.
Good luck getting the rest of the parts done.
-Robert
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Robert, I haven't taken any pictures yet. I am producing the patterns from 1" MDF so they are done in from 3 to 7 layers. I am about 1/3 done with the 92 parts and thought I would wait until it is glued up patterns. Then I can stack up the patterns into the engine which will make more sense. I can take some pictures of the layers still located by the standoffs in the finished blank as a demonstration of what meshcam can do.For instance all the parts have a positive external draft of three degrees and an internal surfaces draft of negative three degrees. There are both planar and compound curves as well as fillets and flat surfaces. There are also numerous surface "pockets". The imported STL files are also scaled up for the casting shrinkage allowance in Meshcam4.These part are sort of like a final exam for a course in G-code. I can use a disposable camera to take pictures and get a digital disk of them at Wall-Mart to get them into the computer but I will have to find out how to post a picture on the forum.Originally Posted by robgrz
wizzardworks
If you get digital photos then I'll post them for you if you don't want to worry about that part.
Good luck getting the rest of the parts done.
-Robert
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Robert, I got pictures back from wall-mart showing machined parts and my set up for flipping the parts on the J-cut. I don't know much about attachments but I will try engine pictures, if that goes the setup pictures will follow
wizzardworks
Robert note in the 2 setup pictures there are drill shanks near the edge of the stock inserted through the blank into the spoil board. The holes were drilled with a 1/4" bit useing the router spindle jogged by 10mm incremental jogs +/- from the center of the stock. Since this is done on the uncut first side accuracy can be within 1/8 inch. Then I incremental jog back to the actual center, touch off the Z height and set the workpiece origon.(also save the origon) After cutting the first side I flip the stock on the X axis putting the drill shanks through the pre drilled holes and replace the four long sheat metal screws that anchor the corners. The stock is laying on the spoilboard in the picture, however when I screw it down I put 3 #7 flat washers between the stock and spoil board so I can cut through without spoiling the spoil board. Note the stacked up sections are aligned in the pictures and all vertical surfaces are on a 3 degree taper (draft) for patterns. This requires in some cases making 7 layers that glue up with no ledges around the parts. It also helps to writ the file name on the top right edge. If I want to clean up before running the second side I just look for the upside down file name on the lower right. It shows the orentation and tracks which of the 92 files the part is.
wizzardworks
Update on two sided machining. Recently I have found another way to set up the two sided parts. I have now made 31 parts this way with no discernable errors on the setup. As with the first method I am using the 10 mm jog button to travel from the center mark on the stock over to the -x edge and drilling through with a 1/4 core box router bit, then traveling the same number of jogs to the +x side of the stock past the center (set to workpiece origon) and drilling another hole. then I jog 20 mm to y- from the +x reference hole and drill a third hole in the waste area. Then return to the center point set as the workpiece origon, raise the bit and change the 1/4 bit to the one selected for the meshcam file. Then I lower the bit to the surface and reset the 0,0,0 point which corrects the depth for the current bit. For the second side I flip across the x axis and jog over to the x+ reference hole, lower the bit and position the stock so that the 1/4 bit and shank are in the hole. Then I put a screw through the 20mm offset hole to hold that side and jog to the drilled x- reference hole and lower the bit into the hole while rotating the stock about the 20mm offset screw. I leave the bit in this second reference hole and screw down the four corners. Then a final check jogging back to the x+ reference hole. The bit should slide into the hole with no drag spinning the bit by hand. Then I load the second side tool path and send the spindle to 0,0,0 to put the required cutter and depth set and it is good to go.
wizzaedworks
I like that as a way to do the alignment with no jigs or fixtures. I may have to try something like that one time to see how it works for me.
Thanks for sharing.
-Robert
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
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