Having a difficult time getting small A to polish on 3CM silestone/granite

[cricex]

Hello, new here.. please be gentle.


I've been fabricating Silestone along with natural stone here for a couple years now. I have set up plenty of polish wheels; ceramic, rubber, resin -- the works without any issue other than the obvious learning curve when first starting out.

I have been stumped. I have a dozen polish wheels for a our small A 3cm edge, and I cannot get them to polish worth a damn.

I am unaware of the brand or the grits as they were given to us by a sister company in Maryland. They are white and green, all my other white/green ceramics go green --> white in the process. Where the grits are 1,000 and 3,000 respectively.

When running it, the end product is indeed rougher then what the last diamond wheel does. I have been screwing with it for days and I cannot figure it out. The acrylic in the silestone is white and burned while the quartz is rough.

I called our AGM Intermac tech and he was confused as well, we attempted to change the static and adaptive radial settings thinking it was a comepnsation issue. We have thus far seen no difference other than the amount the tool wears down and the amperage (read: same polish results).

i am confused.

[ViperTX]

Are you dry polishing these? Almost sounds like it's getting too hot, but then you mention that you don't know anything about these dozen polish wheels you have....so, I would find out about them first.

[howie]

Hi there may be that problem that you have is because the polish are sitting too hard the best polishers are vincent

[hotrodcnc]

slow down the rpms on sec white

[IceBlue91z28]

only use the white (or gray) wheels to polish that stuff. The green one ruins the finish.

[newstoneman]

you should have some paramaters to go buy get the machine close and jog out bring in intill the polishers rubs and can spin but slows down kinda tight not too tight and reset use the number difference from orginal setting.

[Tommy2Times]

use rubber on silestone

[PolishMaster]

Ive been doing this kind of work for several years and probably fabricated on Granite, glass, Silestone, soapstones, marbles you name it, just about every natural and man made stones out there. Some advice I can offer you is that you "NEED" to use a good deal of water when Polishing Quartz, especailly the man made stuff. the resin will burn if you push to hard and not enough water to the pads/ Wheel. The most efficient way to fab Quartz is to Stone First. Preferrably 120 stone, this is probably the most crucial part of fab'n with Quartz. Its best if medium pressure is applied with your 120 stone/"Dry only" on the edge until the edge turns almost as dark or the some complection as the face or factory surface. Followed by a Dry 200/ "Dry" to feather out any last scratches that may have been left from the saw or the 120 Stone. Everything from up From 200 is Applied "Wet" 400/800/1500/3000. From 400 & up "DO NOT" use heavy Pressure when Polish. Its a misconception that ppl think you have to press hard to get a good shine. Pushing too hard even with alot of water can result in a Dry, Dull finish. only 3000 and if you wish to use a White or black buff ( White on light stones/ black on dark stones) you can use a decent amount of Pressure to get your desired Finish. Ive been using these tricks for years and have even got my final look to be more shiny then the factory finish.