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As always nice work Joe. I have been admiring your work.
Here is something I have been using due to local vendors and products in stock.
http://www.modernmastersinc.com/prod...ors.aspx?pl=ME
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For years I've been surfacing my letters and background with the Sculpt Nouveau metalic paints in order to get away from paint. It also gives me opportunity to add some textures. These are some letters for a housing development "Cantebury" I suggested to the developers it might look nice to have copper letters which have been aged. I was able to increase the price with this technique.
The process is to paint one of their metalic paints and follow up with a acid, which starts the oxidizing process.
Here are some samples.
If anyone is interested, they can look up the products at www.sculptnouveau.com The products I've had the most experience with are the "B" solutions (Copper, Brass, Bronze, and Iron.) Iron and Copper are my favorites. You'll also need one of their acids, Patina's, which starts the oxidation process. One friendly, neat things is, if you aren't pleased with what you've done, no problem, just paint another coat, mist on a little more patina and away your go..
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com
As always nice work Joe. I have been admiring your work.
Here is something I have been using due to local vendors and products in stock.
http://www.modernmastersinc.com/prod...ors.aspx?pl=ME
I'm also a big fan of some of M&M's paints but it's a poor substitute, when it comes to the oxidization porcess. I've been unable to get any help, of any kind from M&M, not even color charts. I've boutht their Iron and Copper both of which turned solid in the bottle before I could use much of it.
I am very fond of their metalic paints that aren't for oxidizing however. If they would only provide color samples.
Perhaps you could find their rep and get some help, I couldn't.
Local Sherwin Williams carry M&M they have been big help and Kelly Moore if I am not mistaken.
I went to MM website and found local distributor with my zip.
My uncle is old time Copper Smith with alot of historical work in his portofolio from europe so he was a big help as well.
Good for you.
We also have several M&M dealers.
I'd suggest you begin by buying a small container of Iron and their oxidizating soluton. Once you open it up, watch out, the whole bottle will turn solid in a week. Have you found any color cards to show customers?
Their non oxidizaing metalic paints are excellent. I really like using them.
The Critter spraygun is my favorite. It costs $39. from Amazon
Please show any test you are running.
Tool and fastener sign I posted had M&M rust activated Star right in the center.
Bit of rustic feel to it.
I may have to go to OKC within next couple of weeks I may stop by Norman for cup of coffee at your shop!!!!!
Good to have you over.
Nice work, Joe!
Did you do the leafy scrolls in the first two photos with a beading bit/cutter, and a cove or a classic bit, and do a perimeter rout, or did you run it as a 3D file?
It looks like there are a couple of tight corners to have to fit in to.
What is the big shaped background piece whick looks like a square with extensions on each side- is it a dibond-type of substrate?
Thanks!
Stewey,
The method I used to route the dingbats is very simple. This is a profile Aspire 3D. I used a 1/4" ball nose with very little step over. The furrows come about with this technique. If you could see these in real life there is much more detail. I smoothed the high part with sandpaper. It's quiet easy.
The letters and scrolls are attached to DyBond from the back with screws.
Thanks Joe- I can see now how the step effect can become a bit of a feature...
and not too slow to do if fairly coarse.
So you didn't use some gorilla-type or a contact glue as well as the screws from the back?
Ian
Stewey,
Putting up the letters was a quick two man job. One on front and back. We used silicone glue and screws. The material was Extira, which is exterior fiber board. I'm not sure what you have available over there.
The routing time was rather short and wash't pretty. Although the surface was rough, it was uniformly so. I made a couple of these using 18lb HDU but the didn't have as much character.
Hope this helps.
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com
Thanks, Joe- I wondered what Extira was.
We have MDF here, but you'd never put it outside. There's no exterior version available here, except perhaps Weathertex, which is a heavy weatherproof masonite type of dark stuff that's only available in 3/8" thick sheets.
Maybe that is its equivalent...
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