![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| General Metalwork Discussion Discuss everything relating to metal work. |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
Hi there! I have some R8, 5C, NMTB 40mm and CAT45 tooling that accumulates rust a lot. Can't seem to get a good hold on it to stop the rust, or have I figured out how to get the rust cleaned off, other than using a tub of CLR (TM) solution, and a wire brush, and to spray on some WD40 in a light coating. Is there anything better than this? Any suggestions as to a solution? I live in a WET Cliamate in Seattle, WA. I keep the room the tools are stored in at about 68 degrees most of the time. Thanks, Gregory Bowne |
|
#4
| ||||
| ||||
| The good thing about fish oil is it is know for flowing into very fine areas ( has good capilary action ) and will dry to leave a protective coating on your steel. I dont suggest you go out and buy a can of sardines and use the juice that comes out of that ![]() The fish oil I am talking about is specially made for rust prevention treatments. |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| Some tooling oil will work. Should be available from your tool supplier. I'm not sure about fish oil... never tried it. The key thing too is to bag it. Oil it, bag it, suck the air out and seal it. This won't last forever but it will go a hell of a lot longer than sitting on a cart in the tool room. Also, be sure all of the coolant is off of the tool. Water soluable (sp?) oil has.... water in it! Oil will draw moisture by itself so bagging and sealing will help keep the moisture off. If this is a bit far fetched, have someone check on them more ofter to wipe them down and re-oil the tools. Also, maybe look into getting a drier for the tool room to remove the moisture in the air? Rust is a bad deal for tool holders. I usually toss them. I don't want the pitting destroying spindles, even if they look good after cleaning them. JM2C |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| Tooling oil? Hmmm.. now that's a bit more like it. I know it's not a good thing to put rusty tools in the spindle.. and now that the original lustre of the tools are just about gone ![]() Well, that sounds like the trick. I never thought about the bagging and sealing trick though. But one thing I would mention is that my spindles don't have through coolant. Anyhow.. That sounds like an option to me. Like I said, I'd just about try anything at this point. ![]() Greg |
|
#7
| ||||
| ||||
| Maybe a simplier version of the room dehumidifier. Get or build a tool cabinet with a dehumidifier/ heater in it. I believe you can buy gun cabinets with this type of setup.
__________________ www.integratedmechanical.ca |
|
#8
| |||
| |||
| Ok, I've been away at work for a week. I've been away looking at dehumidifiers for shop-type applications. Not much luck. Though, I was curious when that came up. Air filtration systems and humidifiers come up, but was really thinking about this one. Most of my tooling sits in a Craftsman type drawered cabinet such as those made by HUOT, Lista, etc. and not in carts.. One of my other questions is could one buy a certian type of plastic endmill/cutter type boxes to store R8 and also 5C collets? That could potentioally solve half my problem. Ok. Any other suggestions? Greg |
|
#10
| |||
| |||
| I bought a residential type of de-humidifier from Home Depot a couple of years ago and it works great. I live in Louisiana, our average humidity is probably 85-90 %. Noticed a difference immediately. They come with a catch basin for the water which has to be emptied on a regular basis but you can remove that and run a drain line out the shop wall as I did. |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#11
| |||
| |||
| Well, I'm glad to see the trick worked. I finally used a Kenmore de-humidifier in my tool room which has helped a grandiose amount. But, I cleaned the tools very well. I sprayed on a few different types of lubricant which has helped. It's been a few months now, and the tools are virtually rust free! ![]() Yours Truly, Greg |
|
#12
| ||||
| ||||
| Greg - I live in Virginia - where it rains if you spit in the air. Light surface rust is a constant battle. I have almost always used cheap paper towels and CRC or Rustlick - the paper towel holds more oil in place and conforms to the parts plus it keeps the germs away. I store the important stuff in a somewhat sealed cabinet with a 25 watt light bulb that stays on from September until May - condensation is a huge issue in the spring and fall. SO - I am very interested to know - Which oil did you find to be the best overall?????????? And I want specifics, darn it - - who, where and what!!!!!!!! Thanks. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| R2E3 Tooling | dfmiller | Bridgeport and Hardinge Mills | 16 | 05-29-2005 04:51 PM |
| Rust on Cast Iron | ChrisJ | General Metalwork Discussion | 10 | 05-18-2005 01:06 AM |
| 30 taper tooling | mtechserv | General Metal Working Machines | 3 | 03-15-2005 08:41 AM |
| rust prevention | coolman | General Metalwork Discussion | 2 | 01-22-2005 11:32 PM |
| Where do you buy tooling? | NeoMoses | CNCzone Club House | 8 | 10-08-2003 06:21 AM |