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#1
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Here's the scenario: - Milled out a hole. Want to make it larger, so I thought I'd use the boring head for practice (but also because I don't have a jobber drill bit in the size I need). - Removed the end mill & collet. - Inserted the boring head arbor, then screwed on the head. - Did NOT move the table at any time. - Tried to adjust the head so that the bar just starts touching the inside top of the hole, but can't get it to touch all the way around!?! It's like the hole or the head is out of round? Or the table moved (but it hasn't because I reinstalled the collet & end mill and they still line up). Shouldn't the boring head line up with the hole? Why does it appear that I need to move the table to center the boring head with the hole? What am I missing? tom |
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#3
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| It is very easy and common (depending on your drilling practice) for drilled holes to be off center and/or out of round. Are you talking .005 or .080 off?
__________________ www.integratedmechanical.ca |
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#4
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| @MrWild: Forgot to mention that this is manual milling. I'm actually milling the parts to convert it to CNC (X2). @DareBee: Closer to .005. So do I assume it's my (newbie) technique or end mill and further assume that the boring head is positioned correctly? What can cause off-center or out-of-round holes? thanks. tom |
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#5
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| how you started your hole. If you just drilled without locating the hole with a center drill, the drilling drill can walk the drill point that far before digging in. Once started, the drill follows the hole path. As I wrote that, two things popped into my head. If the deviance is front to back, the column may have flexed from the stress of the drilling forces. If it's out side to side or a combo of both, it could be you need to tram the head. Newbees don't realize they need to tune up the mill before they start cutting. Not a problem though, just a bit of experience will fix that. If I were doing a X2, the first thing I'd add is a back support. Are you doing an X2 Freak? Lots of good info in Hoss's threads, and he has a sale at the moment on all the mods in one CD for Zoners. |
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#7
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I definitely need to tune it up. I thought I'd do that while I was installing Hoss's CNC conversion (which is what I'm milling right now). All his parts are pretty non-critical, so I think I'm okay. And back support is on the list. I just gotta figure out which solution I like best. Thanks for the help. Looks like a tune-up is in order. tom |
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#8
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| Back to the drilling thing. Correct sharpening of a drill bit is critical to its proper function (oversize, wondering, etc). You did use a center drill which typically will get a drill started in the correct location.
__________________ www.integratedmechanical.ca |
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#9
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| If I can get away with drilling a hole rather than boring a hole I will drill it every time. This is off topic of your question, and practice is always good, but I would go and get a jobber, and forget about the boring head, and drill it if gets you in print. |
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#10
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Being off in X but not in Y is diagnostic for the head out of tram; correct this before boring the hole ecause if you do not your hole will not be perpendicular to the top of the work.
__________________ An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out. |
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#11
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| You mentioned you never trammed the mill. So here's the deal: When you're out of tram, the column is not perpendicular to the table travel. As you move the head up and down the column, it's moving on a diagonal, which changes the X. So, very likely your boring head is at a different head height than the twist drill. There's your issue. Tram right away! The hole, BTW, is not straight down. I'd be tempted to tram, center up on the hole again, redrill, and then get on with boring. Cheers, BW
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