Need Help!- tool holder geting stuck in spindal

[skippyfix]

HI all, I have a victor v-center 4 when I plunge cut something the tool changer goes to eject the tool holder it gets stuck so when the arm pulls it out it goes side ways ang james in to the tool pot does any body have any advise how I can fix the problem I do not have the problem on any other tool holders only the ones that I plung cut with. Thank You

[ckirchen]

Plunge cutting is tough on toolholders because it forces the toolholder deeper into the spindle bore and the toolholder starts to self-lock.

It was explained to me that toolholders are designed to be held in place with drawbar tension . The taper is not meant to be self-locking; it is only meant for locating the toolholder accurately in the spindle bore.

I usually spray all my toolholders with dry lube before they go into the spindle. The lube prevents the self-locking.

[Mr. B]

First question is what type of tool holder, ISO or HSK?
Make sure your tool holder is clean and free of build up and debris.
If it only happens with one tool holder try using a different one for that same process.

[samu]

I have a hardinge vmc-1000 and tool holder sticks in the spindle. Air blast seems to work well. I think is due to the coolant cause after cleaning and oiling tool holder and spindle, evrything work well, but only for few hours. coolant is cimtech 304MA and i use water from the public distribution, so maybe there is to much mineral but i didn't have this trouble when i used cimstar 40B coolant. Any idea??? (cat-40 taper)

[Superman]

Spindle taper and tool must be clean and dry, and damage free.

When inserting the holder into the spindle taper, the tool should not seat onto the taper but it should just strike the ejector component of the pull-stud gripper. This allows for the machine to "knock" loose the tool from the taper when toolchanging, if your machine fails to do this, you are putting undue strain on the toolchange arm to perform its' duty.

If doing heavy machining and heat getting back to the taper area, there is the possiblity of "extra" grip on the taper through expansion etc. this heat will also alter any added lub to create additional stickiness.

This enforces the need to keep all taper clean and dry

[laka]

Sounds like you need to adjust the knock-out on your drawbar. On our mills, when you unload a tool manually, you can watch as the drawbar kicks the tool down 1mm or so to break the lock of the taper. We had to have one of ours adjusted as it was doing the same as you describe.