Use a larger Endmill for most of the pocketing, and even rough step out the sides, then you can go back with a 2mm endmill and Knock out the material left in the corners, then last off run the chamfer mill around.
I've been trying to mill pockets with with 30degrees chamfered sides. The corners at the bottom has a radius about 1mm.
I don't have much experience making 3d pockets so I would like some tips and strategies from someone who been making something like this.
It's a 3axis mill.
Sorry for the poor english, hope it's understandable.
Use a larger Endmill for most of the pocketing, and even rough step out the sides, then you can go back with a 2mm endmill and Knock out the material left in the corners, then last off run the chamfer mill around.
"It's only funny until some one get's hurt, and then it's just hilarious!!" Mike Patton - Faith No More Ricochet
Are you lucky enough that the corner fillet actually matches the taper radii of the tool, or do you have to do extra work in the corners?
One trick for that would be something I learned from the V-carve guys: if you ramp that tool up each corner, it will cut the tip radius of the taper mill into the corner.
Other than that, it may be feasible to buy a taper endmill and have a tip radius ground on the end flutes to produce the 1mm bottom fillet.
First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
very useful tips, thankyou.
Another problem occured when I released the pieces from the vice. There is five pieces pressed togheter and they are slighty bent after the pockets are milled. I'm pulling my hair but it doesn't help a bit.
I cannot visualize where the 5 seperations would be, but some stress relief if bound to occur. It could be a lot of extra work, but one way around this is to rough mill all the pockets, leaving maybe a mm or two to finish, turn the parts over, face the back (it should already be sprung a little bit, so facing should straighten it), then finish the first side.
You would need to measure the depth of the sprung parts to see how much deflection to anticipate when roughing. This is necessary to ensure that you leave enough material on the floor of the rough pockets so that it will clean up when finished.
Another method might be to press some of the deflection out of the part after it is roughed. This might be very difficult to do without damaging some of the walls of the pockets, so I'd still think a bit of finish cut would be necessary.
First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)