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Old 02-19-2009, 05:01 PM
 
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Thread Milling 1/4-18npt

Hi All,

I'm threadmilling my first 1/4-18npt and would like some help on the programming.The theadmill is a Morse carbide threadmill. I will be drilling the hole with a 7/16 diameter hsco drill and chamfer the hole with the proper size chamfer. The material is 303 ss. I would like to threadmill the hole without using a taper reamer. Any help on the program and the feed and speeds would be great.
Thanks,

Jim
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:24 PM
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Have never done it...wouldn't you think 1/4 is a little small?..I always just drill and tap, 303 is not that bad.

Konrad
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:21 PM
 
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Its 1/4 NPT, so its more like 1/2" in diameter. I have never done it so the feeds and speeds I have no idea.

For the code, you need to rapid down into the hole, then do a helix which gets bigger as it goes up, following the taper. The helix should have a pitch of 1/18". Not sure exactly what your threadmill looks like but something like that should work.

Also consider the fact that you may be able to get a tapered drill bit and get the tapered hole in one operation.

Matt
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:25 PM
 
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thread milling

I just finished a job that is exactly what you are doing (may have done by now). I used a tapered cutter to go around the hole and set up the angle.
Then used an NPT thread mill. Went down .250", threaded down to .550" in a normal thread milling manner at 700 RPM. I know some guys who didnt bother with putting in the taper first in aluminum. I was doing 30 holes in stainless. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:34 AM
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Did this kind of job a few years ago. Don't think I tapered the hole first, even with 303 ss. We had an NPT indexable threadmill from Kennametal. I seem to recall going to depth first and helixing up. I'm pretty sure they recommended that. Not bad at all.

I think? Seem to recall? Pretty sure? LOL. Older than I was and it was a few years ago.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:39 AM
 
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Taper thread thread-milling

Don't forget that when thread milling a taper thread, that the arc radius increases as you helically interpolate your way out of the hole, so just 'helixing up' won't leave the cutter at the correct place after 1 orbit, but will leave a 'snail-cam' shape.
It is like climbing a spiral staircase inside a cone, every step up, the wall moves further away from the centre!

If you need more help with the part-programming side, get back to me.
Fred the thread
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