![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| General Metalwork Discussion Discuss everything relating to metal work. |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
I am currently trying to machine some bearing races that have been case hardened to R60 .06 deep. I haven't found anything tooling wise that will machine the part after heat treat that will last longer than one part. I machine the part .02 over size with extra material on the back to help keep warp down. I then turn the .02 off to final size ( to remove warp). Then part off the final race. My inserts are usually shot after one part. I have used several different grades of inserts and even tried a pcd insert. I know that grinding is the best way to do this but the shapes of the race prevent this. Any suggestions?
__________________ No matter how good you are, there is always someone better!!! |
|
#3
| ||||
| ||||
| You don't mention how big the part is, or insert grades that you have tried. Kennametal K090 ceramics (with T-hone) will machine that easily and they will stand up for quite a while under smooth, uninterrupted cut conditions. Much less pricey than CBN, and you can get far more cutting tips for the dollars you spend. I've never been comfortable with running $200 inserts unless the job really requires something special ![]() You might opt for a semi and a final finish tool. This will make the finish tool last longer.
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| The OD is 6.745 the ID is 6.045 and it is .352 thick. It has a 46.55 degree angle on the surface were the rollers will sit. I have tried a Sandvik PCD insert ( I can't give more info because the rep brought 2 in for demo and when they broke he took them with him.) We currently are trying a Sandvik 3115. These .125 parting inserts. We haven't tried anything other than a standard insert on the turning. My boss wanted to find a grade that will part it off then use that grade for turning. I have suggested ceramics but at this point we haven't tried them.
__________________ No matter how good you are, there is always someone better!!! |
|
#5
| ||||
| ||||
| Turning is the easy part. I wouldn't attempt the parting, but it likely can be done. You could also rig up a toolpost grinder and part off with that.
__________________ www.integratedmechanical.ca |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#7
| ||||
| ||||
| Yes, I missed the part about the parting-off That is a tall order.Parting off the piece might also cause some warpage due to stress relief. Is it not possible to hold these on a magnetic chuck for boring, or perhaps, in full pie jaws?
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#8
| |||
| |||
|
The problem with that is that the part is so thin that the case hardening creates to much warp on the part.
__________________ No matter how good you are, there is always someone better!!! |
|
#10
| ||||
| ||||
| You make it work. Part of my job entails thinking outside the box and to design or think up ways to do anything that is asked of us, so maybe I am envisioning this as being a lot easier than other people would. (Interesting to see half a milling machine clamped to a hoe to slot a new piece that we welded on for repair or to see some of the wild 1-off satellite components going out the door.) Anyway, I forget that you are only case hardened. For parting you could, turn a start notch on the OD, bore a start notch on the ID and then you will only have to part through the core of the material.
__________________ www.integratedmechanical.ca |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#11
| |||
| |||
| The process you described is exactly how we are doing it. I am not sure how the heat treat company is doing the case hardining but my experince tells me its heat treated all the way through. Thats were are problems are I think. I like to think outside the box also. It doesn't allways go my way though.
__________________ No matter how good you are, there is always someone better!!! |
|
#12
| ||||
| ||||
| 4140s maximum hardness without case hardening is 50Rc. That would be the extent of the hardness that you are dealing with. As I said earlier - I would not consider trying to part that material, although my experience in hard machining is limited compared to others here.
__________________ www.integratedmechanical.ca |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Turning 4140 steel | maximusek | General Metalwork Discussion | 3 | 11-05-2008 04:28 PM |
| Passivating Heat Treated Stainless Steel | msomerville | General Metalwork Discussion | 8 | 04-18-2007 11:49 AM |
| Heat treated 17-4 PH snapping taps | eject_21 | General Metalwork Discussion | 4 | 04-14-2007 09:41 PM |
| ACME - 1018 steel or heat treat 4140 alloy | CnC_BoY | Linear and Rotary Motion | 3 | 03-21-2006 04:41 PM |
| Turning questions - 304 Stainless & 4130/4140 Chromoly | K-fab50s | General Metalwork Discussion | 13 | 10-24-2005 08:53 PM |