Ideas on how to make this?

[cnczoner]

Hi all,

I want to connect a hose to the oil drain plug on my car, and looking for the simplest, yet proper way to go about it. First, this is the part...



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Rough dimensions... ~25-26mm thread major dia x 1.5mm pitch. Hex head = 17mm. Washer head diameter = ~33mm. The ID on the threaded side is 15mm, but I can perhaps drill it to 18mm since the wall is very thick.

Idea 1 was to drill/tap the head for 1/4" NPT and attach a barbed fitting, but the ID of a 1/4" barb fitting is very small, so the flow rate of thick cold oil will be slooooowwwwwww.

Idea 2 is to get some type of fitting to replace this plug, but I can't find anything with that same thread.

Idea 3 is to find a bolt with the same thread and modify it, but again I can't find a bolt with that thread.

Idea 4 is to completely machine a new part. I have a CNC mill and a manual lathe, but I haven't figured out how to thread with the lathe Perhaps I can single-point thread with the mill... hmmm.

Idea 5 (from someone else), is to cut off the head and weld a pipe nipple to it. I believe the part is made of steel (heavy and magnetic) with what looks like a zinc-chromate finish. I haven't worked with this before, but I should be able to grind off the finish and weld to it.

I'm leaning towards 4 or 5. If I can weld to this material easily, then it might be the way to go, but I wouldn't mind a nice small milling/lathing project to learn a bit more.

Any thoughts/opinions/advice?

Cheers,
-Neil.

[youngjim]

Mm.. Without a valve options 1-3 would result in your oil on the garage floor! I've seen kits at Crappy Tire designed specifically for this; it consists of a female quick-disconnect to replace the plug, and a male QD and hose assembly to channel the oil into a suitable container. I think there was a manual valve in there too. If you can't find the right size, you could make an adapter bushing for the next closest size. or drill & tap your existing one. Good luck with it, I'm all for not getting hot motor oil on my hands too!

[cam1]

Hi: Canadian Tire, or Crappy tire as it's referred to in Canada sells a Fram quick oilchange kit for under $25.00.I'm sure Pep boys or NAPA will have them in the US. I've had one on my car for about 2 years, and the only negative comment i have is that the oil drains out slowly, as a result of the spring loaded valve.
That's one thing we have on our US cousins is good old crappy tire.

regards

[cnczoner]

I saw that some time back, but there's two issues with it -- they don't make a size for my Audi, and I intend to connect this to a small hose, then a valve just behind the bumper and I'll probably relocate the oil filter. I'm sick of taking it to the dealer for $100+ oil changes, sick of taking it to those oil-change places who keep stripping the drain nut with their ratcheting air wrench, and I live in an apartment now, so I want to do this once properly and make life simple after that.

BTW, I did find this thing also, but I can't see it getting to the lowest point in the pan to drain the oil properly. But I can't see that thing tube being very large if it fits into the dipstick tube. I need to call them to ask how quickly it can suck oil through that tube.

Cheers,
-Neil.

[youngjim]

On the impractical solution list:

Design something with some cams and a ball valve to go in the existing hole so it doesn't stick down too far.

*Slightly* more practical:

Make or modify a bushing to put a 90° MS24401 fitting and some tube to a valve. Be aware that proper MS fittings are a 37° flare, and some of the auto-racing "almost-AN" knockoffs are 45° because none of them could be bothered to read the spec. (Not that I've got some kind of aviation background or something)(no)

Actually ORB (O-ring Bore) fittings might be better because you can index them a little more easily as the fitting compresses the o-ring. I guess the arrangement of your oil pan will dictate.

Its a bit easier if you don't want the whole works in & around the hole in the pan, but it is all under the engine and therefore subject to rocks and such. Let us know what you come up with. Jim

[ssrmr2]

check summit racing, they have quick oil change fittings.

depending on how fancy you want to get, you can either convert that to a hose end type and use SS hose with a plug and route the hose to an easy reach area. then when you do the oil change you dont have to remove any panels, just pull the hose and loosen cap and drain. you can also use the oil filter relocator to place the filter in a more accessable area and positioned correctly, so that oil doesnt run down the block. I am sure those who have changed the oil run into this all the time. I one did but now i will never have to worry about oil running all over the place.

-steve

[cnczoner]

Still can't find any to fit my Audi.

Something like this is what I was thinking. Really, it's very easy... as long I can figure out an easy way to get a fitting on that drain plug.

[youngjim]

However you decide to do it, make sure the valve isn't the only thing keeping the oil in! A cap on the end of the line would suffice, the worst that would happen then if the valve opened would be your oil level going down a whiff.

[cnczoner]

Yes, there's much detail missing here --
(1) A cap on the end to prevent drips, but which should also be able to hold the pressure.
(2) A spring at the valve to ensure it doesn't vibrate open.
(3) An oil pressure gauge (already in the works). Car already has a low-oil level warning.
(4) Modified coolant tank location (easy) to allow access to the oil filter from the top of the car.