1-2-3 gage blocks? purpose?

[pmurdock]

I purchased a set of 1-2-3 gage blocks. I'm just trying to wrap my head around what the purpose of these things are.

So the screws that came with it are too short to do anything useful in my T-slots - why are there only 5 holes with threads and the rest of the holes don't look like precision holes.

What is the primary use for these things? Can anyone point me in the direction of some images of how these things are used?

cheers!
Paul

[ZipSnipe]

For set up. They are very useful for setting say a workpiece up off the table so that you can drill thru it, You can also screw two together to make an angle plate(as long as they have the corresponding threaded and through hole), they're square and can be used as a square. Many many uses, 4 or more is perfect. This also apply to 246 blocks.

P.S.
They're called blocks not gages.

[pmurdock]

The curious thing is how are these supposed to mount to the table?

So the Fowler set came with 6 3/8"-20 stainless steel screws.. do I just need to replace these screws with longer ones in order to get them to fit into a T-nut in the table? Why would they even send me such small screws in the first place? Also if I screw it into the table the socket head cap screws stick out from them basically limiting the amount of flat surface I can use - does that sound correct?

the other question is why all the holes without threads? How does one utilize those as they don't look like they are ground and precision holes (just a black paint covering on the inside). Are pin gauges the way to go on those - when I want to create a square for example?


thanks for indulging a dummy..

cheers!
Paul

[juliancrouch]

I really should probably not be tossing my 2cents in here, as I have thought about asking these questions.

However, this is what my 2+2=4 brain could come up with.

You can secure your work with a clamping kit directly into the threaded holes, if they happen to be where you need em. You can use your clamps to pass through the block, to secure your work, then toss it in a vise for odd shapes that would normally not line up with t slots. You can secure your work with the threaded holes, then pass though the non threaded holes to secure your work+block to the t slots for milling?

plus what snipe said, you can drill into the negative space, and since they are square, you can use em as squares. JOY

cheers.

[tauntdesigns]

I have never used the threaded holes.
I use mine as risers for putting under a part. In a vise or on the table.

Let's say I have a part that needs some thru features (holes, slots, etc.) and don't want to cut into my table and don't have a workpiece fixture for it, I'd put one under each end and put a clamp over each one on top of the part.

Or in a vise (if I don't have any soft jaws for my vise) I can put one in my vise and place a part on top of it, clamp the vise on the part, slide the block out and drill my holes, slots, etc.

Lets say I have a part that has pockets on both sides of the part. I cut the pocket on the first side and the walls around the outside of the pocket are difference heights and I need to locate my part with the pocket floor flat, I could place the blocks on the table and place the part's pocket on top of the block and clamp part down.

I have seen them bolted together as a square(small angle plate), but never in person.

Cheers,

[tauntdesigns]

You can also use them on a surface place for inspection set-ups.
OR
Lets say I've just finished cutting a part with a pocket on each side of the part. I need to measure the floor thickness, but can't get a mic or caliper in there to measure it. The pocket is 1.5 inch deep on both side, I could place the 1-2-3 blocks, one on each side standing on their 2 inch sides. measure over the blocks and subtract 4 inches from the reading, thus giving me the thickness of the floor..

Later,
Jack
P.S. I hope that made sense.

[5axisguy]

I have many sets of 1-2-3 blocks as well as some made 4-5-6- blocks, and I use them every day, I never have used the holes in them, I can assume the untapped holes are just to make them lighter, they were always useless to me. I mostly use them on the surface grinder to 'block' up smaller pieces to prevent them from flying off as your grinding. Also use them to block up pieces on my magnet on my milling chuck. they also come in handy on the surface grinder as something to depth mic to. For example if you have a 4 inch thick block on the grinder and your lazy or only have on depth mic, you just measure down to the 3 inch side of the 1-2-3- block with the shorter rod in the depth mic. just to prevent always changing depth mic rods.

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

They're also handy for second operation blocking from existing steps etc. If there's a 1" step, support it with a 1" side of a 1 2 3 block.

A warning however. I've always bought the high priced Starrett tools. Then I bought a set of blocks from a cheapo supply house who supplied me with some Chinese or Indian made blocks. Opposite sides were parallel but not square to adjacent edges. Dimensions varied between sets but not between blocks within sets. Had problems with adjustable non-parallel and machinist un-square also.

My own fault, I got what I paid for (or less). caveot emptor

Dick Z

[ZipSnipe]

5axis guy hit on the head, the holes are really just to make 'em lighter. The threaded holes are really just giving you various options on using them. Its just like Lego's and Lincoln Logs....just play with them and you'll figure out some uses for them.

[fatal-exception]

While were talking about this, I have a question about them too. (Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread...)

I bought a set of Chinese ones, nicely finished, square and flat as far as I can measure, they will even wring together with a very small amount of oil film...but...the non threaded holes arent big enough for a 3/8-16 bolt to go through, the tapped holes are 3/8-16. Is this a screwup as far as manufacturing? If I wanted to use them on the mill table, I would have to buy smaller t-nuts and bolts, which dosen't seem right to me.

If I bore the non tapped holes out, will I destroy the blocks squareness and flatness?

Thanks,
Paul

[pmurdock]

fatal-exception!

That's the exact next question I had! The tapped holes are no good for going through and then trying to go into a t-nut. What we need then are smaller t-nuts? doesn't make sense. I'm struggling to figure out how to secure this dang 1-2-3 block to the table.

Does everyone just use the teco clamps to hold them down?

cheers,
Paul

[fatal-exception]

yeah, the reason i bought them was to use them as stops on the mill table. Im certainly not going to buy separate t-nuts and studs to use them! That said, i dont want to destroy them trying to modify.

Paul