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#1
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I used to not do much work with aluminum, but recently i've been cutting a few different pieces of a project, and I kinda want to get some kind of consistent finish to them. I buy mainly from surplus places, so the aluminum finishes vary greatly. Really i'd like it to look like how I received the k2cnc motor mount, the aluminum isn't polished or anything, it's rough but very consistent and nice looking. It looks like steel wool or some kind of wire brush was used after the surface had been smoothed. Granted, I tried this technique and clearly it is not what they are doing hehe, mine didn't look anywhere near as nice. So i'm not looking for polished, as that's to much effort, but I would like a consistent "decent" look to my aluminum parts that i'm making. Currently I sand a bit, then use steel mesh/wool type thing and it seems to be ok, but any suggestions is appreciated ![]() Thanks, Ross |
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#5
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| For flat pieces, I was recently advised to try an orbital sander. This produces a very attractive and even finish very quickly. I have only tried 120 grit and intend to try other grits this way as well. I am also using a scotch brite belt on a belt sander after normal grit sanding. Also a nice finish and quick. For curved or small pieces, 3M bristle discs are easy to use in a die grinder, as are scotch brite flap mops. All of these methods give a textured finish (or satin with finer grits). You can presumably proceed on to buffing after any of these, but I have not done this yet. |
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#6
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| Scotch brite belts on a linisher are great. A bit pricey, but they last well. Give professional original look on stainless steel also. Some aluminum types designed for corrosive environments, like roadsigns do not machine well, do net bend well and are horrible to drll/machine/pollish.
__________________ Super X3. 3600rpm. Two possible way to fix things: The right way or the other way. |
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#7
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Hi Ross, It depends on the size of parts you are working one. I make a lot of small parts for Radio Controlled Helicopters. I purchased a small table top glass bead blaster from Wholesale Tool for about $200.00. I think it was made by a company called Cyclone. Best money I ever spent. It even came with a little vacuum cleaner for a dust collector. I had to make a few modifications to it but it really works nice for my application. It only takes a few minutes to do a batch of parts and they all look nice and uniform. Just something you might want to consider. John |
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#8
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| That is somewhat surprising to me!! I would suppose that the Parts you are making do not have to be very accurate. One suggestion was the Red Scotch-brite ?? That eats aluminum real quick. Good surface finishes are achieved by correct machining habits, if that is not what you are looking for then I guess it don't matter what product you use. A micro bristol Wheel on a Bench grinder will work similar to the items mentioned above.
__________________ All comments made are my opinion! |
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#10
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| I just looked at one of the aluminum riving knives I made about 5 years ago. This thing is still shinning. It was polished using a buffing wheel and then some Mother's polish. It however hasn't been in any weather. I use a ROS with the finest grit possible most of the time. Most of my production parts are powder coated, so it really doesn't matter too much. I did use a sand blaster with glass beads for awhile. I still use this for some raw parts. Puts a nice matte finish on it. Glass beads will deform sheet and smaller parts though. Especially when doing only one side. It can really induce a curve in a flat sheet. There are so many different finishes possible and the steps and results vary widely. If milling the entire block, then I like the look of fresh milled aluminum as long as it's done on an accurate machine. It just screams precision when done right
__________________ Lee |
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