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Old 12-11-2007, 12:59 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Age: 74
Posts: 348
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New Lathe, bench, Vectrax 14-40

Hi All,

I just bought the above lathe, (still in my van), and need to build a
table for it. Mt first thought was to use 2" square tubing, which I've
used before, but right now I'm leaning toward wood.
I'm thinking mostly 2x6's.
The metal would cost nearly $300 and take me a week, while the wood
would cost $50 and only a day.

I'd appreciate thoughts on:
The quality of this lathe. (Taiwan)
The two table alternatives
The best height for the spindle center, (I'm 6')

Ozzie
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:04 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: U.S.A.
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Fastrip is on a distinguished road
Buy me a Beer?

I have built tables out of both.
The wood was my favorite because it seemed to deaden any potential vibration. I did have a piece of steel on top of the wood but only sheet metal. I used 4x6 treated myself and gusseted all corners. The support for the lathe, where ever it was tied down, were shimmed as flat as I could get them with a precision level and I shimmed the bed to level things from there. I used it for many years and never found it necessary to reshim for level. So don't let anyone tell you wood won't work. Oh yea, the base was on 3 points, 2 on the headstock end and 1 on the tailstock end. I learned from a very wise old German that 3 points (whenever rigid enough) is far far easier to level and tie down.
Steel on the otherhand would give you a more compact,durable, solvent and oil resistent package.
Are you going into bussiness, will the whole unit get a constant work out to justify steel?
Is this in the basement like mine was, used maybe 20-30 times a year, by me?
Good Luck
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:24 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Age: 74
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Thanks for your reply.
Since posting, a couple weeks ago, I've built the table using wood. The machine came with a coolant tray and I used that to size the table, adding a few inches all around. The construction is framing lumber, mostly 2X6's, and I think plenty strong. The design is a strong bridge with legs only at the ends so I'll have room for two tool cabinets underneath.
The end panels, (legs), sit on 1 1/2" angle iron, to which I welded 3/4" threaded rod connector nuts, (long nuts). I cross drilled four pieces of threaded rod with 3/16" holes.
By using a pin punch to turn the legs I did the leveling. I'll soon add four machined hockey pucks under the rods to add some feet, (if I can figure a way to lift the whole thing).
At present the lathe bed is level across the ways at three points within a half thou, and the same along their length, according to my Starrett level. It's so level it takes the bubble a while to settle in.
Since I took the lathe all apart to get it out of my van, dialing in the head will be next.

Ozzie
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:55 AM
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Buy me a Beer?

You know the dial in will probably be as tough as you make it. My machines aren't going to turn 10'' straight within microns but they are pretty straight. All I do is chuck a piece of 3''dia. stock about 9'' long. I usually turn 2'' - 2.5'' of the chucked end and so there is a shoulder to butt against. Then it's a matter of turning the piece (I usually use sharpened carbide or high speed to keep the cutter pressure to a minimum) and checking the taper. Mind you this must be done without any support such as a center.
Once you get the thing as straight as you need it to be then you can check the tailstock. The tailstocks repeatability is very dependent on the flat of the bed, any twist will screw things all up. If things are straight within reason I usually turn up a center and then turn several different length pieces between centers. The tailstock should be adjustable from side to side to get things straight from there.
I am sure there are many different methods for doing such allignments. The methods I described here I have used more times then I care to admit (since I am only 29 (some 20 times now)).

Merry Christmas,
Good luck,
Fastrip
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:14 AM
 
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Age: 74
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Yes, that's the method.
Since it's a Taiwan lathe, I'll also check along the top of the work piece in the chuck alone to make sure it's parallel to the bed; and then again with a piece between centers to be sure the elevation of the head and tailstock are the same.
I'm not real worried about these things since the leveling went so fast and well; I have an idea it's a pretty straight machine.

Thanks,
Have a good Christmas too,
Ozzie
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