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#1
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Greetings. I need to know what spindle rate and feed rate to use on a cut I'm about to try. This is my first try at milling aluminum. I'm on a Taig 2019 which has spindle RPM rates from 1k to 10k. My aluminum is 6061 and is 0.25 thick. I'll be going in 0.08" passes on this first try - I think my machine can handle that. The perimeter of the contour for the part is about 6 or 7 inches long. My carbide end mill is 1/8" diameter and has 4 flutes that are about 0.75" long. So now that I've written the G-Code, what F speed should I add and what speed should I set my spindle to? Thanks, gs
__________________ Gary Shepherd www.16tracks.com |
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#2
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| I tried it at 1k RPM and then about 2500 RPM and then 10K RPM. Each time, my end mill bogged down around the 3rd or 4th pass. I guess the 1/4 HP motor on my Taig is not strong enough. I started at 5 IPM which I guess was too slow. Then I tried 2 and 1 IPM. End mill still bogged down. So is it the lack of motor power or what? I wouldn't think that 5 IPM would be too much at 0.1" depth cuts. Of course, I'm totally new at this.
__________________ Gary Shepherd www.16tracks.com |
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#3
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| gs, RPM in aluminum if you keep the chips out of the way is usually not an issue, Definitely back off on the .1 DOC, try .030 Ken EDIT: If your mill uses a step pully for RPM changes try it at about 4K. |
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#4
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| Thanks Keep the chips out of the way.... Yeah, they seem to have welded to my endmill. It's round and smooth on the bottom now. Can I get them off? What about the feed rate? How fast should I be trying to go, say at 0.030 DOC?
__________________ Gary Shepherd www.16tracks.com |
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#5
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| Soak the endmill in muritiac or phosphoric acid (outdoors!). The acid will dissolve the aluminum but not hurt the carbide. Some toilet bowl cleaners also work. Are you climb milling around the profile or slotting it out? Bob
__________________ You can always spot the pioneers -- They're the ones with the arrows in their backs. |
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#6
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| Consider spraying a little WD-40 on the part at various intervals. This will also help prevent the the aluminum Q-tip. I think depth of cut was your biggest hurdle. When I work with a grade I haven't milled before or use a different type cutter, I like to start shallow. It is fairly easy to increase depth of cut later on if needed.
__________________ Lee |
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#7
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| I'll try the acid. I'm climb milling around the shape but it has slots. It's sort of an "F" shape but with more than two arms. Flat/smooth on one side with arms/slots on the other side. Each slot is 1/8" wide. There's also one 3/8" hole in the middle. Will WD-40 not gunk things up? Guess I'll try it again with the shallower cuts. Can I speed up the feed rate to around 12 for the shallow cuts with no problems?
__________________ Gary Shepherd www.16tracks.com |
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#8
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| WD will make some of the chips stay around, but a little more pray shoots them out of the tool path. It both lubes and slightly cools the mill, which is crucial if you are having sticking problems. WD is actually pretty clean and cleans as well as helps prevent rust. I use it on my router to mill aluminum often. I use stuff called cool tool on my manual mill. I will be adding flood coolant to my cnc mill project. I little lube can really increase cut quality and tool longevity and stresses on your machine.
__________________ Lee |
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#9
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| Can I speed up the feed rate to around 12 That should be a workable start Gary, it is most always a combination of what a particular mill can handle, this is even more evident the smaller they are. These seem to be a great little machine, one just has to operate them within their limits. This is true no matter what the size. WD seems to be a very popular lube. I do not know where you operate your mill but if you have a small air compressor, using a small low pressure air blast works well also to keep the chips out of the way. Have you ordered those 3 flute carbide yet |
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#10
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| I haven't ordered any 3-flute mills yet but I might. Looks like 4 flues makes it too hard to clear the chips. I am planning to add an air compressor to blow chips away. What about a couple of 2-flute 1/8" mills for this small stuff?
__________________ Gary Shepherd www.16tracks.com |
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#11
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| Absolutely, 1/8 2 flute will work just fine, the aluminum cutting 3 flute will just work better, you can cut faster and smoother, they are a win win situation, you can take that to the bank. You can use 4 flute for profile milling just fine but they can and do, as you infer, clog easier when used for plunging, pockets or slots. You will be amazed at the difference carbide has over even the hi-quality HSS cutters for general purpose machining. Today there is less of a price difference then there used to be, especially in smaller size cutters. Send me a PM with your address and I will send you a couple of the 2 flute 1/8" carbide, they will be better then the cheaper HSS that we all seem to own. |
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#12
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| Wow, Ken. That seems extremely generous of you. I sent you a PM with my address. I'll go look for some 3-flute ones now. Got a few new end mills in the mail today. A couple of 1/2" 4 flutes. Got one 1/4" with 6 flutes. And a few 1/4" with 4 flutes. Just trying to get my end mill collection up to par right now. I guess I'll be using that 6-fluter on my CNC wood router project. It should cut the crap out of some maple shouldn't it?
__________________ Gary Shepherd www.16tracks.com |
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