Surface Grinding...Coolant Question

[bremenrules]

I hope this is the correct area to post this question:

I recently received a hydraulic surface grinder, and for the first time in my life it is one with a coolant system. My issue is this: no matter how I aim or adjust the nozzle (I've tried a few), coolant seems to either go everywhere, or just bounce off the 'boundry layer' of air surrounding the spinning wheel. Turning up the coolant pressure/flow definitely does make it more effective, but myself, the machine, and the surrounding area are then COVERED with coolant very quickly. Can anyone suggest a proper way to set up a coolant system on a surface grinder?

Thanks ahead of time....

[M250cnc]

Hi i don't know if it's the correct forum either but i will give my answer anyway.

You should have some guards around your machine if no then you need to get some. The reason for the coolant is to keep the part cool, the coolant will never flood a grinding wheel due to the high peripheral speed of the wheel.

I used to hate having to grind with coolant but you just need enough to cool the part without making too much mess. I/we only used coolant on very difficult to grind metals.

The other thing to do is to have the spout fairly high off the workpiece and close to the wheel then control how how much coolant hits the wheel which in turn sprays it on the workpiece.

That is why spray mist systems are also employed but i think these may be frowned on now due to heath and safety issues.

HTH
Phil_H

[bremenrules]

Yesterday I got fed up with the mess and started simply flooding the workpiece and not even spraying towards the wheel. So far, there doesn't seem to be any major drawback to this method -- I just want to keep the part thermally stable and not worrying about blasting the wheel/part interface. Am I wrong to be doing it this way? Again...thanks ahead of time.

[Chuck Reamer]

I have done a substantial amount of wet and dry surface grinding in my time. Wet grinding is far better not only for part temperature, but it also prevents the wheel from plugging up. Grinding dust is also not the greatest thing in the world, it makes more mess than the coolant.

The best method for this is to use a flat coolant nozzle about the width of the wheel. Most grinders come with something like this, but you can also purchase ends from most coolant line manufactures. Have it run along the wheel as close as possible (1/8" is fine) following the face contour. When you turn it on it will not touch the wheel itself but will be spraying like a flat sheet of coolant. The spray should shoot about were the wheel makes contact with the part, or a little further to the right of wheel center is fine.

You may need to build a few little splash guards, its not a big mes when done properly. For grinding small punches and blades dry works just fine.

Hope this helps you out



What kind of grinder is it, what is the table size?

[bremenrules]

It's a 6x18 Harig Automatic. Yeah..I said "Hydraulic" in my original post, so I lied a little bit. Still beats a hand-fed, in any case.

I'll try your nozzle method tomorrow, Chuck, and let you know how it went. I appreciate all the help posters have offered so far.

[SORCHEROR]

the idea is to flod the work piece and not shoot into the wheel,you will make alot of mist and splash it everywhere hitting the wheel,just let a medium amount of pressure,enough to cover the work piece in front of the wheel
and make sure all your guards are in place

[bremenrules]

Chuck,
I tried your technique of aiming the coolant stream *along* the wheel towards the point of contact and it made a huge difference. There still is the occasional splash and a little bit of mist/splatter, but I'm assuming that's part of the course. I still get quite a bit of sparking. Is that okay? I'm going to switch to a wider nozzle soon to cover the wheel's thickness more thoroughly. I'll let you know how that goes in a few days.

[Chuck Reamer]

Yah it will still spark, thats a good thing. Im glad I could help you out, good luck grinding up a storm.