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These work well for holding carbide on a grinder.
3M double-coated tapes
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We use carpet tape.
These work well for holding carbide on a grinder.
3M double-coated tapes
Double post....
Last edited by Scooter122; 09-17-2007 at 09:45 AM.
We use carpet tape sometimes here... watch out though, we also use Premiere 600 Synthetic Coolant, and so much as a drop of this stuff anywhere near the tape causes it to release almost instantly. Consequently, we've been known to take a little coolant from the CNC and squirt it on a stubborn sticker to remove it. Works scary good, and kinda makes you more nervous about getting it on your skin, because it SEEMS pretty harmless and non-offensive.
All I ever use the tape for is to hold down acrylic sheet now and then, or the odd piece of aluminum for drilling or engraving only.
However, back in the day, I used to use it all the time on the CNC router for wood and plastics. Also, the base of the router was foamy PVC Sintra, and almost always either urethane foam or acrylic sheet (and sometimes Rexolite)
Your mileage may vary.
works "ok" for wood and plastic parts. but tends to load up with dust pretty fast and beats the snot out of your cutters. in general, i'd use a tab or onion skin the cut and sand the remaining off.
Originally Posted by ewest
Wow, that is GREAT to know. I stay away from tape because of the difficulty in getting the part released. I've tried other solvents with less than satisfactory results. Where do you buy your coolant?
Thanks,
Walt
I get my coolant from McMaster - It's listed under Machining and Grinding Oil Concentrates as the fully synthetic version. It doesn't really seem much like an oil, but more like some weird concoction of organic amines and other chemicals. It cuts with water at about 15:1 to 30:1, completely prevents rust, and cleans off with water. It's slippery as hell when its wet, but when it's dry, especially on our painted concrete floor, it actually gives you a squeaky, grippy surface with your boots. Weird, but good. We'd have idiots with fractured skulls all over the place otherwise.
On Mcmaster page 2094, the part number is 1216K16 for the 5 gallon, and 1216K15 for the 1 gallon. It's pretty non-offensive stuff, doesn't get smelly, and rejects oil, so if you've got a skimmer in your sump, it should go a long way. I use it to cool everything. We machine PVC here from time to time, and I even use it on that crap to keep the temperature, and hence, the poison stench to a minimum. I don't have a skimmers in anything, so what we do is just take coolant for spray bottles out of the CNC, and put in new coolant. That way, we get a constant circulation and nothing sludges up.
Andy
If you are doing a lot of sheet stock parts, You might want to try using a vacuum plate fixture. The fixture can be made from an aluminum block that is larger than the sheet you are cutting. Basicly you machine grooves in the area under the plate you want to cut, with a connection hole to the side of the block into which you will connect a small vacuum pump. Use packing material around the outermost groove to make the seal. This will hold down aluminum sheet strong enough to mill with a 1/2" endmill at 4000 rpm and 60 ipm feedrate. To release the part just turn the vacuum pump off. No sticky crap to wash off. I have run 100's of parts on a Bostomatic 1440 mill with this procedure, with excellent results.
Hello Bultaco!
Do you have any photos of your vac setup that you can post? I've always used double stick on a really clean surface myself, but your setup seems worth a try.....BTW , I have a 143 Bultaco myself.....Tom
Hey Bultaco, Your vacuum chucks sounds interesting. I would also like to see some pics of your set up. Thanks Bob
Grey primer and super glue work real well as well. Rice paper tape and bondo, and the clear 3M tape they use for holding on trim does a very good job.
i use hot gluegun to hold down wood on my router
i just tack it in a few spots ,works great
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