Saw Arbor- where and what is this?

[itwanabe]

Hello all. I really don't know if this is the correct place to post but I've been google'n for a good hour and I can't find anything like this. I found lots of arbors but none like the photo below:



I want to setup a rig to use a saw arbor attached to a pulley like pictured above. Are there anything like it or do I have to custom make it? I was thinking buying an arbor and extending it, adding bearings on both ends, then attaching the pulley. Any insight would be great!

[seidlry]

I would start by looking for jack shaft assemblies . But everything you have there should be available at your local hardware store .

[2muchstuff]

Most of the ones that I've seen have had bronze bushings in them vs. ball bearings. Any good old time hardware store should have them.

[itwanabe]

thanks. I'll check ace hardware=) searched for jack shaft assemblies and found nothing of interest.

[krfrea]

What you need is a shaft, 2 pillow ball bearing blocks, a couple shaft collars and an arbor, (preferably with a left hand thread). I can get you the parts needed if you want. I have the arbors that will lock on a 1/2" shaft with a set screw and give you a 1/2" x 20 LH threaded arbor shaft. You can email me direct if you like <thorvie@thorvie.com>

[awright]

With the orientation shown in the photo in the initial post, a right-hand thread would be proper for the blade retaining nut. The blade support flange should be pinned or strongly thread-locked to the shaft if it is a single-diameter shaft.

The set-screw arbor adapters were really intended for attachment directly to a motor shaft that can't be machined easily. They are not as good as a properly machined and threaded shaft for balance and concentricity. If itwanabe can't find a ready-made arbor and has access to a lathe, I would recommend necking a next-size-up shaft down to the desired diameter to fit his blade snugly and thread the shaft directly. That will provide excellent concentricity and a shoulder for his blade support flange.

These "saw arbors" used to be very common items at Sears or any well equipped hardware store but I suppose they are rarely used these days since cheap imported table saws, chop saws, and grinders are readily available.

awright

[Kevin45]

Putting a sawblade on that is just asking for trouble. That type of chopsaw is not setup to do that type of work. Just make sure if you do use it that way to remember that it may kick, blade come loose, and keep yopur fingers clear.

Kevin

[awright]

itwanabe never actually said what kind of blade he wanted to put on his creation. The photo, which I gather is something he wants to copy or take as a model, looks more like a tile saw with the tray under the cutting area, or an abrasive saw.

However, Kevin45, aside from the normal high hazard of circular saws, why is the homemade chop saw configuration shown inherently more dangerous than the equivalent purchased miter saw? Of course, any saw would have to have proper support and clamping of the workpiece (which is not visible in the photo) and should have a retractible blade guard and a belt guard, but assuming that those items are provided and well-designed, why is this more dangerous than the equivalent commercial saw?

awright

[krfrea]

Awright, you are correct...it would be a RH thread for counterclockwise rotation. I do have arbors with LH thread for clockwise rotation that are made to go on a 1/2" shaft if needed.

[laheyth]

try Grizzly Tool, they sell arbors

[laheyth]

Personally, for the money you will waste .....go buy a chop saw

[JBlacksmith]

laheyth- Agree: If you value your fingers dump that thing.
I am usually the sort who hates buying new and would rather fix up anything, but Chinese chop saws are cheap as chips and the ones I've seen come with a hydraulic damper which should help reduce 'snatching' when cutting wood. I think that the contraption shown was intended for tile cutting, though would anyway fill the washing machine- spinner motor- shown, with dust.