What wil be the best way to machine this part?

[chakaloso]

I want to machine this part but I need ideas how to make this part the toth are really small and the material is very strong..

[cdlenterprises]

Depends on the quantity. For the teeth, you could get a slitting saw or T-slot cutter and have that profile ground onto it. Then set the part up vertically on an indexer and cut the grooves. Time consuming but it would work. If the quantities are higher I would look to see if you could roll or form the shape onto the parts (similar to a knurl). Anybody in your area have a gear hobber?

[DareBee]

Custom made tapered end mill.
20+k spindle would be nice as well.
These guys http://www.tungstentoolworks.com/ will make them the may be close to $100 each.
You will have to contact to know for sure.

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

What is the material, hardness etc. Qty?
add: accuracy of index & general tolerances?

[Geof]

Originally Posted by RICHARD ZASTROW What is the material, hardness etc. Qty? add: accuracy of index & general tolerances?

It is in fine print on the drawings; one piece 1018 or 1045, the other piece with the square hole, aluminum nickel bronze with a machinability rating of 50 compared to brass.

I think the easiest way to do these parts is give them to somebody else .

[JerryFlyGuy]

A specially made end mill would help, however looking at it, the "valley" of the teeth is not a regular shap but rather a tapered shape, it calls the teeth dim's out, so therefore I would think the valley has to be tapered. It wouldn't just be a simple pass of the end mill. Instead it would be at least two pass's to get the proper profile.

FWIW

[DareBee]

I would likely use 3 passes.
1 roughing with a straight cutter and 2 finish with the taper mill.
No indexer is required. CNC is.

[JerryFlyGuy]

It looks like the two parts interface w/ each other so.. it probably doesn't matter too much in the end.. as long as both are done the same way..

[Geof]

Originally Posted by DareBee I would likely use 3 passes. 1 roughing with a straight cutter and 2 finish with the taper mill. No indexer is required. CNC is.

A 0.015" diameter end mill is very tiny. I put my money on a custom ground side and face cutter and an indexing head; complete the slot in one pass.

[cdlenterprises]

I may be missing something but the slot width on the bronze part is .381 mm. By my numbers that's just under .015" wide. I wouldn't use an endmill. The tool would be too small and cost prohibitive to make. Get a t-slot cutter ground with that profile and do it in one pass.

Or the best way to do it.....sub it out...

Good luck!

[Geof]

Originally Posted by cdlenterprises I may be missing something but the slot width on the bronze part is .381 mm. By my numbers that's just under .015" wide. I wouldn't use an endmill. The tool would be too small and cost prohibitive to make. Get a t-slot cutter ground with that profile and do it in one pass. Or the best way to do it.....sub it out... Good luck!

Plagiarist

[DareBee]

I will agree that a .012" cutter is a rather small diameter.
But what's the big deal?
No problem - OK maybe need to take 3 roughing passes instead of 1.

I figure they want tapered sides so that they will get almost 0 backlash.

In a lot of cases a design like this is made by an engineer who knows very little about machining manufacturing.
Talk to them and you can likely get them to change the design to something you can cut with a standard slotter
or maybe a standard V cutter.