What wil be the best way to machine this part?

[cdlenterprises]

Originally Posted by Geof Plagiarist

Plagiarist? Look at the second post. I recommended that way back when. I was just confirming that 1) I read the print right and 2) that great minds think alike

[Geof]

Originally Posted by cdlenterprises Plagiarist? Look at the second post. I recommended that way back when. I was just confirming that 1) I read the print right and 2) that great minds think alike

Whoops, sorry, grovel, grovel.

[DareBee]

With all this beer drunkin going on who is going to drive home from work?

[Shotout]

Originally Posted by DareBee With all this beer drunkin going on who is going to drive home from work?

What your truck doesn't g-code?

[DareBee]

I guess it's time for a new truck

[chakaloso]

Thanks for the Feedback!!

I need to make 5 of each for now and It could be more later on.
I will try T-slot cutter first, andI let you know the outcome.

the cut is .015" and that will be hard to make it with a end mill because there are 180 slots.


Thanks

[Geof]

Originally Posted by DareBee With all this beer drunkin going on who is going to drive home from work?

Already there .

[handlewanker]

Hi chak, how many do you want to make?
If you're going to make one, then having turned the item the next job is to mill the teeth, broach the square hole and drill the holes.
There's plenty of faces and diams to grip, so holding and locating should not be a problem.
The teeth are parrallel sided with the slots tapered to the centre line.
Due to the size of the tooth it would easiest to make it with a slotting head on a milling machine, with the job held in a dividing head and plunging from the top, or if height is a problem then from the side in the X axis, and a "u" shaped single tooth form ground cutter, so forming the tooth in one pass as you go progressively deeper into the face.
This will give parrallel sided teeth with the tapered form.
If a form ground cutter is out then then a single tooth cutter ground to a "V" shape with flat end, narrower than the slot, would cut first one side on all teeth, and then the other side of the teeth in a second pass.
Having the centre higher makes it impossible to form the teeth with a pair of cutters on an arbor due to cutter diam and run out.
If you really want to get primitive and do it with the average home work shop tooling, then try racking the slots, like a shaper, with the lathe saddle and a boring bar, and the job held in the dividing head on a plate bolted to the bed at right angles to the lathe spindle.
It's a straight forward cutting and turning exercise, that is determined by the tooling available.
The hardest part would be to get a method to divide the number of slots required.
If you're going to make it a production job, investment cast it.
I would tend to agree with Darebee about the design/engineer part as this is usually how these jobs are phantisized when the digestive juices are at full slurp.
Ian.

[peter@slater]

The 3/4" square could likely be done with a rotary broach. You would have to add a chamfer on the broaching side, but 3/4" square x 3/4" deep with corner radii is usually doable, although I have no experience with this material. A heavy duty rotary broach that size with custom corners is about $150, probably too much for such a small amount of pcs. Then again, if you could do them all with the one broach you may save yourself alot of time.
I hope you know this material!
Square Broaches

[Les A W Harris]

Apears to me as a 3.000" by 180 tooth Hirth Coupling, Another wonderfull Metric designed in Inches and converted to metric; could be cut on a Gleason # 3 straight bevel machine, tools would be a dog with the none standard Pressure Angle, and 0.015" whole depth, getting the cutters past each other? Don't have access to a machine anymore. A 0.750" dia disc cutter would go thru on the mill, 18.4349 deg P.A. custom cutter.

Cheers Les H.