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#13
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| One more vote for a band saw. If you have the room and the $$, the hydraulic feed jobs that are one step above the ubiquitous $150 saws are worthwhile, but even the cheapest bandsaws are a real boon. Once adjusted, they do good work. I can't imagine using an abrasive chop saw through a 6" diia aluminum round, which a band saw will do with ease, unattended. |
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#14
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| There is also a nice "benchtop" model band saw from Lathemaster( http://www.lathemaster.com/ ) that has a favorable and extensive review from this person: http://www.tedatum.com/thms/index.html It's cost is a little more and it won't handle the really big pieces, but for a small shop it has me ready to pull out my wallet.
__________________ Shoptask rebuild: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2139 Home built gantry router: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5049 |
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#15
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| I have a HF 14" chop saw and the HF blade bends too much to get a straight cut from aluminum or mild steel. Home Depot sells chop saw blades that are thicker and might produce a straighter cut. What do you guys think is better for chop saws to create a straight cut? Is a carbide blade or a chop saw blade better? Also, I need to make some angled cuts on mild steel. Any tricks to clamping the piece to the chop saw? Can I simply go to a metal shop and have them make the angled cut? Will the big metal bandsaws make steep angled cuts? Thanks, |
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#16
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| i use a carbide blade on my 10" compoud mitre ryobi... So scary to watch closely.. i cant help but vividly imagine the blade getting loose and getting me!
__________________ Design & Development My Portfolio: www.robertguyser.com | CAD Blog I Contribute to: http://www.jeffcad.info |
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#17
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| If you go with a mitresaw, use a triple chip grind 80 tooth blade. I use one on my table saw and my sliding compound mitresaw. I get very accurate cuts with very little teeth marks on the end (In fact, a light filing and a maroon scotchbrite pad will give you a nice matte finish. For light steel, I use a metal chopsaw with a 14" abrasion wheel. I can cut 45 degree angles on that set up as well. If you have to cut thick steel, use a band saw with a lubricant. Note: I'm a carpenter by trade, not a machinist. My tool choices reflect the view point of a carpenter. If I were a machinist, I would buy a bandsaw because I can use it in a machine shop
__________________ -Patrick _____________________________________________ measure twice, cut once - a good rule for everything Last edited by Patrick2by4; 07-09-2004 at 05:45 PM. |
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#18
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__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#19
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| Here's what I did. I decided that I would go with the bandsaw, leaning towards the smaller HF units, since price really is an issue. In the meanwhile, I thought I'd just deal with parting the aluminum as needed... ack! Picked some some parting blades last week and realized that that would not be the answer. But yesterday (just yesterday), I was over at a friend's auto shop, and he had an old bandsaw that someone left him (from some part of some other deal). He sold it to me for $150. This thing is huge! I measured the blade at 116" (~38.5" between centers), and it probably weighs >300lbs. It has a hydraulic feed with an adjuster and it runs well. So I coughed up the $$$ since I thought it was a good deal. I need to find some space for this thing, but it sits at another friend's place in the meanwhile. Also need to find replacement blades. A local shop told me they can make them, but I guess if I find them ready-made it will be better priced. Also, any recommendations on the best # of TPI for cutting aluminium? What about steel? Any thoughts on this? Cheers, -Neil. |
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