Milling coolant needed

[bob1112]

Just wondering what waster soluble oils everyone is using and at what ratio. We are looking for an economical but quality solution for more oil. We are in a small area with our mills so odor is a consideration. We have never installed an aftermarket tramp oil rig, do they help a bunch in coolant quality and odor?

Is anyone using additives in the coolant to help with odor and to extend coolant life? Thanks

Brandon

[joecnc1234]

We've been using blaser swiss lube for a few months with no odor problems. we were using some cheap crap sold locally by the 5 gallon pail. now we have 55 gallons of blaser and we no longer have the Monday morning rotten egg smell. plus if you do the math $115 for 5 gallons of the smelly stuff $1100 dollars for 55 gallons of decent coolant same price no gas masks. we used to add a bacteria killer to the old stuff worked OK at best. until Xmas break then decided to try something else.
Joe

[joecnc1234]

we run at 7-10% on the refractometer.

[bob1112]

Is this a full synthetic product? It seems like many full synthetics are rated only for light to medium machining and I would be concerned about tapping operations with that. Is the semi-sythetic the way to go?

[joecnc1234]

no it's a semi-synthetic, but we are running a fully synthetic in a lathe for iconel that is awesome but its hard on bearings and ways.

[bob1112]

Any other replies? Just looking to see what people have used and what works good. We are tired of the &%*$ smell as well and I am thinging that way oil contamination cannot help.

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

When using water based soluble coolant, I pretty much stay with semi-synthetic. Adding stuff to the mix has always caused "unintended results" like operator allergies, dermatitis and complaints from wives about laundry problems. At one time, I designed a coolant recovery system where I recycled spent coolant and returned it to the machine sumps after reconditioning and mixing with fresh coolant. First step though, make sure you know what you have for water to start with. Often, the water is the problem, not the coolant. That being said, I now prefer micro-drop near dry milling with airblast to remove chips and cooling. The micro-drop is more of a lubricant than a coolant. One thing you must be aware of, some of the coatings on cutting tools do not always get along with these "lube/coolants".
Good luck.

[judleroy]

Hi
I used trim c210 for two years. It had a smell
and could be strong for about a week. Then it would go
away. Then they told me the c210 was being fazed out.
They advised me that they were now offering Trim c320
in its place for about 5 dollars more for 5 gallons. So
I made the switch. It has worked great for about 2 years. The c320 has virtually no smell and lubricates tools much better. Also the c210 was blue and made
your skin smurf blue. That was not so bad since it washes of with water. The c320 is a yellowish color
like amber. The mix is 3 to 5 percent by refractometer.

[cali tool]

If your milling with a mist unit I recommend SPINDKOOL MIST. It's realitively new but works great and only runs $22.00 for a gallon mixes 4 oz. to gallon.

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

The air blast lube/coolant I was refering to in #7 above is not a true mist. If I let it run non-stop, I don't think it would consume 1 cup of the micro-drop lube/coolant in 8 hrs. I don't like the true mist units for reasons of shop humidity, consequentially rust and breathing coolant vapors all day. The micro-drop stuff is biodegradeable vegetable oil. (Jojoba bean oil?) I gather it performs something like Castor oil in racing 2-stroke engines or Pam sprayed in a frying pan.