Best way to cut bar stock AL into slugs for machining?

[SRT Mike]

We machine flat aluminum bar stock into high-end electronics housings. Usually start with AL slugs around the size of a pack of cigarettes.

Right now I use a chop-saw with a carbide tipped blade that goes through the AL like butter. $99 for the saw at Home Depot and $60 for a fancy "Diablo" blade. Problem is that it's hard to get it super accurate (i.e. you're always eyeballing the blade kerf). Also, it scares the crap out of me with that big blade zipping around so fast. And don't try to keep cutting when the bar stock gets short - it can and will (and has) thrown pieces of the stock across the shop on occasion and I've busted knuckles and bloodied my fingers when the flying AL catches them.

I can get a metal cutting band saw but now sure how accurate that would be.

Or... I was thinking a cold saw? I have heard you can get accurate cuts to within several thou if you set it up right. I don't need it to be THAT accurate (I'd be happy if I could keep 1/64") but the blade moving slower and better able to cut smaller pieces, and much less chance to throw metal pieces around would be good.

Any suggestions? I'll keep using the chop saw but soon I want to get something else that will be quick, efficient, SAFE, accurate, and will last me a long time.

[Mini-MillX2]

The best thing to use for that is a Metal Cutting Bandsaw. You would want to get one of the horizontal cutting saws. You clamp your bar stock into the saw, rest the blade on the bar stock and it cuts either by adjustable weight of the saw or by hydraulic. It's very accurate and produces a clean straight cut. I just bought a cheap ($179) one from Harbor Freight to do exactly what you are talking about. I do cut each piece a little long and mill the edge to the exact dimensions the part needs. What's nice is that you can let the saw cut by itself and it shuts off when the cut is complete. So you can do other things while it's cutting.

[SRT Mike]

Interesting.

How do you like the $179 HF one? Does it have coolant?

I've seen them at Grizzly and the rest but wasn't sure how well they work. The guy in the shop behind me has one that we sometimes use and it does seem to produce a reasonably good cut, although I had heard the cold saws were good to a few thou...

$179 is in the right price range, for sure

[Geof]

Get the cold saw. These are designed for smooth accurate cuts. You can get almost as good with a chop saw or a good miter saw if you make a custom bar holder. I prefer a 10" miter saw with a blade speed as low as possible. Make a holder with a hole that is a good fit for the bar stock so it is secured in all directions. Have some form of clamp, like a cam clamp that comes down from the top. Put a stop that is pushed down to bring the stock up to it but which then swings out of the way so the cut off piece does not twist and jam. Now you can cut to plus or minus a 1/64" and you can get down to a leftover length just long enough to be held by your clamp.

[Mini-MillX2]

Originally Posted by SRT Mike Interesting. How do you like the $179 HF one? Does it have coolant? I've seen them at Grizzly and the rest but wasn't sure how well they work. The guy in the shop behind me has one that we sometimes use and it does seem to produce a reasonably good cut, although I had heard the cold saws were good to a few thou... $179 is in the right price range, for sure

I actually was disappointed in this saw when I got it but now that I've used it, it works well for just a cutoff saw. Don't get me wrong, this is a "Cheap" china saw so your getting what you pay for. They sell a more expensive saw for around $700 that has the coolant spray, this one doesn't. I wish I had got that one instead but it's alot more money. For just cutting bar stock, I'm happy with this cheap saw for now. I do babysit it a little and spray some lube If I'm cutting somthing thick.

[holbieone]

it's all in how much you want to spend

a good band saw or a good cold saw ?

how long each day will the saw run?

how many parts do you need each day ?

if your cutting 40 hours a week those cheap saw wont last long

[SRT Mike]

Originally Posted by holbieone it's all in how much you want to spend a good band saw or a good cold saw ? how long each day will the saw run? how many parts do you need each day ? if your cutting 40 hours a week those cheap saw wont last long

Well, I wouldn't use it as much as a high volume shop but I am going to need to cut maybe 100 slugs of AL per day. Actually I'd probably just spend a day cutting what I need for a couple of weeks but I don't mind having a tool that will last rather than one that will burn out after a few months. Then again I don't have $5k+ to spend on this either. I'm thinking maybe around $1k or so, maybe less if I can buy used?

[holbieone]

i would suggest a band saw because it can run when other operations are being done (so the time when it's cutting is at zero operator coast)

also a saw with at least 1 hp and a 3/4 inch bade width

you can start looking here

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVS...00000007093130

[in2steam]

I don't think a cold saw will work as well with alum, it will run fairly slow, they are great for steel mind you.

A wood bandsaw wood be best esp if it has multiple speeds, thats what i use right now if Its small and I need to be accurate. Its a 12" sears old style "C"frame casting, I replaced the blade with a timber wolf and added cool blocks(it does alot of wood working) and took the time to go thru it. I can cut a 2" piece in about 4-5 seconds and its accurate down to around 1/32(give or take) just using a stop block and a decent mitre(i have a toggle clamp I sometimes use). My only limit is that I can only get 12" on the inner side of the saw.

Otherwise I would get a decent northen tool or better name metal band saw and use a fairly aggresive blade. If you do that you won't have much time between cuts, if you use a metal blade it will clog over time and just overheat then break. The smart thing would to make several cuts at once using a stop and you should still be accurate down to around a 1/32, for that extra 1/64 its alot piddling around. The real cheap band saws won't hold up under that kind of duty cycle.

The biggest problem I have found with the chop saw method and alot of pieces is you have to really add the saw kerf into your cut, on large qtys that can cause havok with your numbers.

chris

[BobWarfield]

Geof has your answer. It will be fast and cheap. Buy an extra chop saw if you want to have one around in case the one you have dies on you.

I got a DeWalt Multicutter, which is purpose built to run carbide blades a little slower. About $400. It is so much faster than my metal cutting bandsaw that I never use the bandsaw any more.

Best,

BW

[scadvice]

... as an example now for sale. It depends on what you can afford but it is better to spend the money for the right saw. This particular saw will work but there are saws like this one that have a higher SFM for just aluminum.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NICE-EISELE-10-H...QQcmdZViewItem

You can do fairly well with a good miter saw using a misting unit, but you might run it to death for tens of thousands of cuts...
Steve

[mc-motorsports]

Do you have a "sawing service" in your area? We have a couple of shops around here that do production sawing and cutting of blanks for other companies. They basically have VERY expensive and accurate production CNC saws, you just order the material through them cut to size, any quanity.

Or my normal suppliers will cut to size, obviously it cost's more to have a bar of aluminum cut into 200 pieces, cut in half or quartered would be free.

If you only using 100 pieces a day and precision would help, I would outsource it in the way of ordering the material through a supplier who can supply it cut to size. Cold saws and chop saws are too much labor intensive, CNC saws are expensive and you'd have to be able to justify the cost.