Mini jaw puller?

[mikesativa]

Hi, I'm looking for a mini inside jaw puller. The smaller the better.

I will be using it for these:


I would really appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.
Thanks. Mike

[radicooldude]

Hey, are you trying to pull that R/C nitro piston sleeve out of the crankcase? If so, here is a trick. Put zip tie (flat, not used) through the top of the piston sleeve and out of the exaust hole. THen, turn the flywheel by hand, and it will push the sleeve out of the crankshaft. Works on my .26 and .21's perfectly. If you need a better description, lmk. - Zachery

[mikesativa]

Thanks for the tip but i do so many of them a puller would save me alot of time the tough ones.

It can take upto an hour to get a stuck one out. A puller would take 5 minutes. That really adds up.

[2muchstuff]

I used to use the copper washers from the glow plugs in place of the cable tie that radicooldude had suggested. In my years I have yet to see a puller/ tool designed to just do what you are wanting to do. You just might have to make a tool specific for the job.

[One of Many]

Originally Posted by mikesativa Hi, I'm looking for a mini inside jaw puller. The smaller the better. I will be using it for these: I would really appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks. Mike

I have not had luck using a small jaw puller without doing some damage to the grip area. One side always takes more force and small puller jaws can sink into the sleeve material.



I had made an aluminum split mandrel type with an internal taper and stop shoulder. The stop shoulder limited the taper force outward once seated. It went all the way through the sleeve and caught under the lower lip. It all pulled up into a tube that would rest on the cylinder casing.

Doing many of them, I might be inclined to make a holding fixture and attach a slide hammer to the draw stud and lightly tap draw it out. A bit of heat might loosen it if they didn't grow at the same rate.

If the crank were not in the way. You might be able to use a smaller solid shouldered plug inserted from the bottom side of the cylinder. Pull on it the same way as above.

This does require access to a lathe and a bandsaw.....

DC

[vulcom1]

Looks like a 40 size abc engine sleeve. I would not use a puller as it is easy to warp or mark the sleeve which will make it useless. (Done that) My way of doing the stubborn ones are to put a prop on for leverage and then with a pair of work gloves heat the head area with a propane torch. Does not take much and then insert a piece of hardwood in the exhaust port and rotate. I use a popsicle stick for this. This way you don't mark up the ports as it is easy to do with something hard.
It is impossible to get past the piston to use a puller if it is a one piece case as you need to remove the sleeve to get the rod and piston out. Slide hammers, vise grips and pliers should not even be on your inventory for working on sleeves. A little heat will go a long ways even for the front bearing. If you wreck one at around $90 your savings go out the window.
John

[mikesativa]

I want to hook the transfer ports on the sleeve to pull it out. If I can get the puller attached then I can use sonme heat and other trick to get it to pop free. I will attach some HD plastic to the jaws to protect the sleeve.

How about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Snap-...spagenameZWDVW

[vulcom1]

If you are going to replace the sleeve and not use it again then there would not be a problem. If you look at the ports you will see they have a slope which is very easy to get burred up. Grinding after on them will change your timing which may or may not be your intention.
When I used to race, I did a lot of playing around with 40 Super Tigre's for rpm. Had one engine for modifying and after I got what I wanted made up 4 others to that spec's. Before getting to where I wanted I used about 6 sleeves. 30k on 7.75" carbon prop, FAI fuel (80/20).
Not sure what you require but if you have tried heat then another suggestion is put the case/sleeve in the freezer for an hour and then heat it. This way you are shrinking the brass and expanding the alum. After you get it out clean up the case so it is easier to replace the sleeve. Should be snug but a hand push fit.
John