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Thread: Ringing and bad finish while parting 303ss

  1. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane123 View Post
    that sounds better. dunno why you were running soooo slow....... i run my sandviks at 450 sfm in ss303 & 304 all day!
    Shane
    I run 303 slower than 304 with sandvik tools, its more of a personal preference for me. the reason is 303 is really abrasive and tends to wear the tip of the insert down faster than 304 does, yes 304 is tougher to cut but it runs smoother than 303 especially on cut off and facing tools.

    one machine (omni turn )we run 303 in runs only oil and that machine we can run a cut off blade for 1 year(micro 100 cut off blades) on 303 and not worry about wearing it out. it runs every day on 3/16 dia to 5/8 dia 303 stock.
    it runs a .025-.050 chamfer depending on part dia. and cut off .
    used to cut tons of 303 in 2" and up( in bigger lathes) and I always cut down the SF on 303 vs 304 for the same reason.

    Delw


  2. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delw View Post
    Shane
    I run 303 slower than 304 with sandvik tools, its more of a personal preference for me. the reason is 303 is really abrasive and tends to wear the tip of the insert down faster than 304 does, yes 304 is tougher to cut but it runs smoother than 303 especially on cut off and facing tools.

    one machine (omni turn )we run 303 in runs only oil and that machine we can run a cut off blade for 1 year(micro 100 cut off blades) on 303 and not worry about wearing it out. it runs every day on 3/16 dia to 5/8 dia 303 stock.
    it runs a .025-.050 chamfer depending on part dia. and cut off .
    used to cut tons of 303 in 2" and up( in bigger lathes) and I always cut down the SF on 303 vs 304 for the same reason.

    Delw
    i have noticed that with my finish turning, however 99.99% of the time we are up against a wall with time, so we tend to sacrifice longevity for over-all time. sfm of 450 for my rougher & parting, sfm 650 for my finishing and shallow grooving with parting blade, and usually baby threading & normal grooving tools. i still havent found anything that will keep up with the 1125 grade sandvik in 303 & 304, however the seco makes a wnmg rougher that comes close.


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    shane I think i know what secos wnmg your talking about those are fantastic inserts, they last longer then the sanviks for 9310 gear steel and 1045 too. I use them for rough cause I get alot more parts per inserts.
    I got like 1 box left.
    BTW were do you get the seco the place I used to get them locally closed many years ago.and I havent looked for a new place yet


  4. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delw View Post
    shane I think i know what secos wnmg your talking about those are fantastic inserts, they last longer then the sanviks for 9310 gear steel and 1045 too. I use them for rough cause I get alot more parts per inserts.
    I got like 1 box left.
    BTW were do you get the seco the place I used to get them locally closed many years ago.and I havent looked for a new place yet
    we get seco from deco tool
    Home

    the main problem we have with inserts is jumping from sqaure shaft to round bar to hex, etc, in stainless steel. the 1125 grade sandviks take the abuse of the interrupted cut and keeps on chugging.

    we do use the cheaper mitsubishi inserts when we machine 1018, 1045, and 4140, as those seem to handle it just fine.

    any insert works for delryn, but we have some sharp edge prep non coated inserts for uhmw to help from stringing up.


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    for a interupted cut wnmg 432 I use the valenite wnmg-432-lm-sv325
    have very good life in in hex and casting along with heavy hot roll scaling and other interupted cuts.

    Thanks for the link
    Delw


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